Paracas, Peru: Tsunami Survivor in the Sechura Desert

August 2011

On August 15, 2007 (4 years prior to our arrival), a significant 8.1 magnitude earthquake hit the southern Peruvian coast just north of the city of Pisco.  Tremors were felt all the way to Lima, but Pisco sustained the worst damage with hundreds killed in the collapsed cathedral and up to 80% of its homes damaged or destroyed.  On the other hand, the nearby, small seaside community of Paracas sustained a 10 meter (32 ft.) tsunami with little building damage or loss of life.   How did Paracas survive so well?  I guess because it was sparsely populated, there were few tall buildings, the tourist boats to the Islas Ballestas had returned for the day, and the tsunami's force  hit the desolate high desert cliffs rising from the sea.    The greatest damage was done to the large rock formations on the coast, especially one known as The Cathedral.

With that history, why would we choose Reserva Nacional de Paracas as a destination?  It is often referred to as Peru's Galapagos, because, despite the arid conditions, there is an amazing variety of sea birds (including Humbolt penguins) and sea mammals which have made this their home.  The waters produce large numbers of krill which also bring a wide variety of fish to this area.  The Paracas Reserve is one of the few marine preserves and is a World Heritage Nature Site.

But the reserve is also part of the Peruvian Sechura Desert which connects with the coastal Chilean Atacama Desert, the driest desert in the world.  I thought it strange that the driest desert should be along a seacoast and just over the mountains from some of the wettest rain forests.  But the Humboldt Current from Antarctica which moves up  the western South American coast is cold and fast and produces fog, but not in-land rain.  The Andes are so tall, they block any moisture trying to escape from the rain forest. Hence,  a very dry desert. As my grandmother lived in a California desert town, I came to appreciate the beauty in desert landscapes and the variety of living things that exist in difficult conditions.  But this is an extreme desert.

It seemed so strange to view the rugged coast with turquoise sea and then to turn around and see only desert sands.  We had an enthusiastic young guide who had grown up with seals and pelicans as friends while his marine-biologist father pursued his research.   As we entered the reserve, we could see at a distance a shallow lake where rare red-winged flamingos were wading.  The roads were made from the natural salt in this mineral rich area.  But this was not always a desert--we saw fossilized sea shells from when it was part of the ocean floor and petrified wood from a time when the climate was more favorable.

But my story wanders.  In order to get to Paracas from our last stop at Lake Titicaca, we had to fly back up to Lima where we met our driver who then took us south along the coast on the famous Pan-American Highway.  The ground became more barren, and we saw numerous small huts where locals established homesteading rights.  There were also many long white tents where chickens (pollo) were raised.  I didn't want to know the conditions under which they were kept.  I seriously doubt that  they were "range-free."  We arrived at our lovely hotel (nicest we had been in so far) in the small town of Paracas late afternoon.  We then headed to the line of restaurants and souvenir stands along the shore to get  a fish dinner.  While locals encouraged us to try the Peruvian specialty ceviche (spicy, marinated raw white fish), I enjoyed instead the crispy corn snacks and delicious cooked sea bass.

After a good night sleep, we were surprised at breakfast to find the Italian friends who had been with us on our Manu Rain Forest adventure at the beginning of our trip (see PE Manu posts).  We swapped stories (their van had lost a wheel on those treacherous jungle mountain roads on the return trip) as we waited for our boat to see the amazing penguins and seals on the Islas Ballestas.  The wildlife was so remarkable that I have given it its own post (next).

So it was not until midday that we wandered into the desert portion of the Paracas Reserve before heading to Nazca.  Paracas is not only the name of a town and a national park, it is also the name of an ancient Pre-Inca people who developed sophisticated pottery and beautiful textiles from 1,000 BC-1 AD, and the name of the blustery winds.  The Paracas wind had started to blow as we came to the coast.  Our guide explained that it often goes in 3-day cycles:  the first day, a persistent high wind; the second, often a blinding sandstorm; and the third day, a gradual decline.  Even though it was the first day, the haze in some of my photos is from the blowing sand, not any city pollution.  They say there are places on this coast which are good for water sports, but you must avoid the deadly rapid currents, the high winds, and the giant, nasty jellyfish.  We were content to just admire this fascinating piece of Planet Earth from the cliffs.

Click link below for slideshow:
Paracas

Music: Tito La Rosa, Tinkuy Pacha, Lo Mejor de Tito la Rosa: Meditacion
Additional Information:  
Insight Guides: Peru
The Essential Book:  Discovering Peru