July 2009
The volcanic castle rock of Stirling rises over the fields of Scotland's greatest battles. When Edward I of England took Stirling Castle, the Scots fought back and won the Battle of Stirling Bridge in 1297, led by William Wallace (Braveheart). But a year later, the Scots were defeated, the castle retaken by the English, and William Wallace brutally killed. The Scottish spirit was still strong, but it wasn't until 1314 that Robert the Bruce (ancestor--see prior post), after many setbacks, led them to victory again in the fields of Bannockburn near Stirling Castle. Rather than risk the English retaking the castle, he had it razed.
The castle seen today is really a conglomerate of structures started in the 1380s and undergoing revisions until the Jacobite uprising by Bonnie Prince Charlie was crushed in 1746. But it was during the reigns of James IV, James V, Mary Queen of Scots, and James VI (who became James I of the united England and Scotland) that Stirling Castle became a resplendent Renaissance castle with a brilliant court life on par with those in Europe and England.
Though Mary, Queen of Scots, was crowned at Stirling when 9 months old, she spent her childhood in France and much of her married life in Edinburgh. She returned to Stirling Castle for the baptism of her son, James VI, in a golden baptismal font provided by Elizabeth I, during a two-day celebration which included an allegorical siege of an enchanted Arthurian castle. A year later, Mary abdicated to her infant son. Not to be outdone, James VI had the baptism of his first son celebrated with an actual ship "sailing" into the great hall to deliver fish to the guests at the banquet. This event was the talk of Europe for centuries.
Stirling was about an hour west of Edinburgh by train, but no matter how you arrive, you must get up the steep road to reach the castle. There is limited parking at the top, so I took a taxi up and enjoyed the walk back down through the town. There was an interesting free tour (once you paid admission). James V's palace was closed for remodeling, but there was still lots to see, including the 16th century model kitchen and the tapestry weaving cottage. Leaving, I shuddered as I passed over the surviving grates of the "oubliet" (from the French "to forget") where prisoners were dropped into a pit dungeon from which there was no return.
Click link for slideshow:
Stirling Castle
Music: Carl Peterson, Scotland the Brave, Scotland the Brave
More information: http://www.stirlingcastle.gov.uk/
Go confidently in the direction of your dreams.
Live the life you've imagined. Henry David Thoreau
Slideshows and Photos
SLIDESHOWS LOST TO ICLOUD
SADLY, ON JUNE 30 ALL THE LINKS TO MY SLIDESHOWS WILL DISAPPEAR WHEN APPLE DISCONTINUES "MY GALLERY" AS PART OF THEIR CHANGE TO ICLOUD.
I AM ALSO PREPARING AND PACKING FOR MY PERSONAL MOVE. ONCE I AM SETTLED IN A FEW WEEKS, I WILL START TO POST AGAIN AND LOOK FOR A NEW INTERESTING WAY TO SHARE MY PHOTOS THROUGH MY BLOG.
THANK YOU FOR YOUR INTEREST IN MY TRAVELS. I WILL FIX THINGS AS SOON AS I CAN.
Sunday, March 28, 2010
Sunday, March 21, 2010
My Ancestral Haunts
The question "Where did you come from?" can be answered with reference to geography, religion, or, in this case, genealogy. When I travel, I generally follow the logic of the Major General in Pirates of Penzance. I may not know whose ancestors they were, but I am happy to adopt them as my own during my sojourn. But I have a different relationship to the UK. I do know some of my ancestral lines due to the diligence of my mother's research, and I partly came on this trip to understand them and their "haunts"--to see England and Scotland through their eyes.
We have been fortunate to find links to several royal lines, fortunate not because it gives us greater status, but because their records and histories were kept. Indeed, many of our unknown, hard working ancestors may well have been better people and more noble and brave in their daily acts than their rulers. So, it was more with curiosity than pride that I looked into the peephole of history to find the place of "my people."
My family is very Norman. We descend through William the Conqueror who was victorious in the Battle of Hastings in 1066. The Normans were Vikings who settled in Northern France in the 800s, but through William's wife, Matilda, we go back through early Merovingian and Carolingian kings and nobles of France to Charlemagne and back into the shadowy past to Antenor I, King of Cimmerians, who lived in the Black Sea area about 400 BC. We descend from William the Conqueror's grandson, King Stephen, as well as his granddaughter, Empress Matilda, who plunged England into a long civil war as they fought each other for succession, only to be resolved by allowing Matilda's son (Henry II) to become king upon the death of Stephen (1154). To the dismay of Eleanor of Aquitaine, the wife of Henry II, he had a number of illegitimate children, including another of our ancestors, William Longespee, the First Earl of Salisbury (see Salisbury post).
We share the Norman heritage of the Lyon family at Glamis Castle whose most famous descendants are the late Queen Mother and Queen Elizabeth II. We also share ancestry with the Dukes of Leeds in Yorkshire. Sir William Hewitt and his son-in-law Sir Edward Osborne, both served as Lord Mayors of London during the reign of Elizabeth I. Sir Hewitt was the Sheriff of London in 1553 and was charged to carry out the execution of Lady Jane Grey and her husband. He was mayor during the coronation year of Queen Elizabeth I. Sir Osborne, who had rescued his future bride (Hewitt's daughter) when she fell in the Thames off London Bridge as an infant, was mayor in 1583 and MP in 1586. He was one of 12 merchants given exclusive rights to trade with the Ottoman Empire and once hosted a renowned dinner on Sir Francis Drake's ship.
Colonel Gerard Fowke of Gunston Hall, Staffordshire, England, was a Gentleman to the Bed Chamber (close, trusted friend) to the ill-fated Charles I, but resigned his post in the Royal Army and headed for the new world about the time Charles I literally lost his head (beheaded) in 1649. Fowke then married Ann, the daughter of our Jamestown settler, Adam Thoroughgood. The Fowkes came through the line of the Scottish king, William I, The Lion, who invaded Northumberland and was captured besieging Alnwick Castle (before the Percy's) by the troops of our other ancestor Henry II. William I died at Stirling Castle in 1214 (see posts). Another Fowke ancestor was Geoffrey De Say, one of the English barons who forced King John to sign the Magna Carta in 1215. Following another branch, we connect back through Henry I, II, and III and King John, the very one our Magna Carta ancestor rebelled against.
But my family is also very Anglo-Saxon, descended from the Wessex kings, back through Alfred the Great (848 AD) and Old King Coel (yes, he really lived) who was born about 125 AD. It was the death of our Saxon ancestor Edward the Confessor in January 1066 that led to the disputed succession, causing William the Conqueror to invade and fight my Saxon ancestors.
But we are also Scots--Highlanders and Lowlanders. Edward, the Confessor, married his daughter to Malcolm III, King of Scotland, the son of Duncan I who was murdered by Macbeth. Malcolm III was the father of David I "The Saint" who built the oldest structure still standing at Edinburgh Castle, but was killed in battle near Alnwick (see prior post) Moving forward, there is Robert the Bruce who, after being inspired by a persistent spider spinning a web in a cave, secured the independence of Scotland in the battle of Bannockburn in 1314 at Stirling Castle (next post) against my English ancestors. We are also a part of the MacDonald of the Isles clan, a fierce native Highland group with Gaelic/Viking, Pict and Scotti roots. Though Highlanders, the MacDonalds stood proudly with Robert the Bruce (our Norman-descended Lowlander) at Bannockburn, but later joined the migration of Protestant Scots to Northern Ireland during the religious persecutions.
Going back, we find FitzWalter, the 1st High Steward of Scotland, (1105) whose father came from France with the Normans. He became the founding ancestor of the Stuart kings of Scotland and England. His descendants and those of our other Scots fought and married descendants of Norse, Finnish, and Swedish kings who lead all the way back to to Yngvi, King of Turkey, in 193 AD and Godwulf of Asgard, Eastern Europe, in 80 AD (where is that?). Some claim Yngvi was a descendent of King Priam of Troy. So is there a speck of Trojan in me? And we are just beginning to search the heritage of Lord Fitzgerald of Ireland. However, by the 17th and 18th centuries, all of our known English, Scot, and Irish ancestors had packed up their rich heritage, hopes, and possessions for a treacherous journey across the sea to an unknown future. They were among the adventurous early settlers in the colonies of Virginia, Maryland, Pennsylvania, Massachusetts, and Maine. I found out recently that some of our early Maryland ancestors came from Yorkshire, so we can claim to be Yorkies as well.
So, yes, I found ancestral haunts most everyplace I went on my journey. Stepping back from my personal peak into history, I marvel that all of these warring factions have finally been peacefully united through their descendants. And now I stand, uniquely a composite of all of these and other individuals, blended with my own life choices and eternal spirit, contemplating what I have to contribute to the legacy of "my people."
Photos: Bayeux Tapestry of William the Conqueror; King Henry II; William Longespee; Elizabeth I; Charles I; King John and Magna Carta; Alfred the Great; St. Margaret's Chapel, Edinburgh Castle; Robert the Bruce at Stirling Castle; King Priam
We have been fortunate to find links to several royal lines, fortunate not because it gives us greater status, but because their records and histories were kept. Indeed, many of our unknown, hard working ancestors may well have been better people and more noble and brave in their daily acts than their rulers. So, it was more with curiosity than pride that I looked into the peephole of history to find the place of "my people."
My family is very Norman. We descend through William the Conqueror who was victorious in the Battle of Hastings in 1066. The Normans were Vikings who settled in Northern France in the 800s, but through William's wife, Matilda, we go back through early Merovingian and Carolingian kings and nobles of France to Charlemagne and back into the shadowy past to Antenor I, King of Cimmerians, who lived in the Black Sea area about 400 BC. We descend from William the Conqueror's grandson, King Stephen, as well as his granddaughter, Empress Matilda, who plunged England into a long civil war as they fought each other for succession, only to be resolved by allowing Matilda's son (Henry II) to become king upon the death of Stephen (1154). To the dismay of Eleanor of Aquitaine, the wife of Henry II, he had a number of illegitimate children, including another of our ancestors, William Longespee, the First Earl of Salisbury (see Salisbury post).
We share the Norman heritage of the Lyon family at Glamis Castle whose most famous descendants are the late Queen Mother and Queen Elizabeth II. We also share ancestry with the Dukes of Leeds in Yorkshire. Sir William Hewitt and his son-in-law Sir Edward Osborne, both served as Lord Mayors of London during the reign of Elizabeth I. Sir Hewitt was the Sheriff of London in 1553 and was charged to carry out the execution of Lady Jane Grey and her husband. He was mayor during the coronation year of Queen Elizabeth I. Sir Osborne, who had rescued his future bride (Hewitt's daughter) when she fell in the Thames off London Bridge as an infant, was mayor in 1583 and MP in 1586. He was one of 12 merchants given exclusive rights to trade with the Ottoman Empire and once hosted a renowned dinner on Sir Francis Drake's ship.
Colonel Gerard Fowke of Gunston Hall, Staffordshire, England, was a Gentleman to the Bed Chamber (close, trusted friend) to the ill-fated Charles I, but resigned his post in the Royal Army and headed for the new world about the time Charles I literally lost his head (beheaded) in 1649. Fowke then married Ann, the daughter of our Jamestown settler, Adam Thoroughgood. The Fowkes came through the line of the Scottish king, William I, The Lion, who invaded Northumberland and was captured besieging Alnwick Castle (before the Percy's) by the troops of our other ancestor Henry II. William I died at Stirling Castle in 1214 (see posts). Another Fowke ancestor was Geoffrey De Say, one of the English barons who forced King John to sign the Magna Carta in 1215. Following another branch, we connect back through Henry I, II, and III and King John, the very one our Magna Carta ancestor rebelled against.
But my family is also very Anglo-Saxon, descended from the Wessex kings, back through Alfred the Great (848 AD) and Old King Coel (yes, he really lived) who was born about 125 AD. It was the death of our Saxon ancestor Edward the Confessor in January 1066 that led to the disputed succession, causing William the Conqueror to invade and fight my Saxon ancestors.
But we are also Scots--Highlanders and Lowlanders. Edward, the Confessor, married his daughter to Malcolm III, King of Scotland, the son of Duncan I who was murdered by Macbeth. Malcolm III was the father of David I "The Saint" who built the oldest structure still standing at Edinburgh Castle, but was killed in battle near Alnwick (see prior post) Moving forward, there is Robert the Bruce who, after being inspired by a persistent spider spinning a web in a cave, secured the independence of Scotland in the battle of Bannockburn in 1314 at Stirling Castle (next post) against my English ancestors. We are also a part of the MacDonald of the Isles clan, a fierce native Highland group with Gaelic/Viking, Pict and Scotti roots. Though Highlanders, the MacDonalds stood proudly with Robert the Bruce (our Norman-descended Lowlander) at Bannockburn, but later joined the migration of Protestant Scots to Northern Ireland during the religious persecutions.
Going back, we find FitzWalter, the 1st High Steward of Scotland, (1105) whose father came from France with the Normans. He became the founding ancestor of the Stuart kings of Scotland and England. His descendants and those of our other Scots fought and married descendants of Norse, Finnish, and Swedish kings who lead all the way back to to Yngvi, King of Turkey, in 193 AD and Godwulf of Asgard, Eastern Europe, in 80 AD (where is that?). Some claim Yngvi was a descendent of King Priam of Troy. So is there a speck of Trojan in me? And we are just beginning to search the heritage of Lord Fitzgerald of Ireland. However, by the 17th and 18th centuries, all of our known English, Scot, and Irish ancestors had packed up their rich heritage, hopes, and possessions for a treacherous journey across the sea to an unknown future. They were among the adventurous early settlers in the colonies of Virginia, Maryland, Pennsylvania, Massachusetts, and Maine. I found out recently that some of our early Maryland ancestors came from Yorkshire, so we can claim to be Yorkies as well.
So, yes, I found ancestral haunts most everyplace I went on my journey. Stepping back from my personal peak into history, I marvel that all of these warring factions have finally been peacefully united through their descendants. And now I stand, uniquely a composite of all of these and other individuals, blended with my own life choices and eternal spirit, contemplating what I have to contribute to the legacy of "my people."
Photos: Bayeux Tapestry of William the Conqueror; King Henry II; William Longespee; Elizabeth I; Charles I; King John and Magna Carta; Alfred the Great; St. Margaret's Chapel, Edinburgh Castle; Robert the Bruce at Stirling Castle; King Priam
Friday, March 12, 2010
Alnwick Castle
July 2009
Fitting Alnwick Castle into my plans and getting there were challenges, but what noble quest does not require bravery, perseverance, and all those other knightly virtues? Although the name of this enchanting castle is not widely known, one is very likely to have a sense of deja-vu upon arrival, as it has been used in the movies Becket, Ivanhoe, Robin Hood: Prince of Thieves, Elizabeth, Mary Queen of Scots, and The Dark Knight, and has played Hogwarts (modified by some fancy graphics) in parts of the Harry Potter movies. It has hosted Antique Roadshows, Robin of Sherwood, Blackadder, and other t.v. productions. It is called the Windsor of the North. Indeed, it is the quintessential medieval castle.
Alnwick was involved in the early border wars, and my Scottish ancestors William I was captured here for ransom and Malcolm III was killed in battle. But it became the home and castle of the Percy's who have ruled Nothumberland as lords, earls, and dukes since 1309. Harry "Hotspur" Percy was born there in 1364 as was the present 12th Duke of Northumberland in 1956. This spring the Shakespeare Theater in Washington DC has been presenting Richard II and Henry V in repertoire, and I find myself again transported into the tangled tale of medieval maneuverings.
Hotspur's father was made Earl of Northumberland at the coronation of Richard II (1377), but he and Hotspur became powerful allies to Henry Bolingbroke (Henry IV) in usurping Richard's crown in 1399. But, their changed loyalties faded quickly. Hotspur rebelled and was beheaded by the king only four years later. Hotspur's father was pardoned, but killed in another rebellion against the king only two years after that (1405). Shakespeare was intrigued by Hotspur and subtitled Henry IV Part I as the "Life and Death of Henry surnamed Hotspur."
Hotspur's son went to Scotland until Henry V became king and pardoned him. He then managed the troublesome Northumberland border lands until being killed with his son in the first battle of the War of the Roses. The next Earl supported Richard III, but was later murdered by his peasants for collecting taxes for the Tutor victor, Henry VII. The seventh earl supported Mary Queen of Scots against Elizabeth and was executed in York and his son was later mysteriously murdered in the Tower of London. Amazing that they have gotten to a 12th Duke!
On the tops of the turrets and walls stand stone warriors and builders poised to protect and care for the castle. Under their watchful eyes, one wanders into the courtyards where, instead of makers of armor and merchants of cloth, one finds a delightful tea room and shop. But this was not the day when the wizard would appear, archery would be taught, or young boys and girls would compete in the quest for knighthood or the fearsome dragon quest. (They have some great kid activities). Nor did I have time to wander outside the castle walls to see its remarkable gardens created under more peaceable dukes and duchesses. However, I delighted myself in the elegance of the "sumptuous" castle chambers with exquisite paintings and furnishings and a library that could take a lifetime to peruse-- yet it also seemed personal and cozy. I liked these rooms better than those I had seen in the royal residences. I enjoyed a solitary walk on the castle walls that windy, cloudy afternoon.
Ah, but I have digressed from my noble quest to reach the castle. I left one day in Edinburgh at the end of my trip to visit surrounding areas. So, I went to Stirling Castle in the morning, took the train back to Edinburgh and then a train south to Alnmouth (England). Alnmouth is a whistle stop town that is not on all of the Newcastle to Edinburgh runs. I then caught the bus for a "15-minute" ride to Alnwick which took longer due to all the in-town stops. From the bus depot, I figured out the unmarked way to the castle. That left less than 2 hours to closing, so I couldn't see both the castle and gardens. Leaving, I had a long wait for my faithful (but slow) steed of steel (bus) which wound its way back to Alnmouth, giving me only minutes to make a run for the last train to Edinburgh that day. It would be easier by car or a bus from Newcastle-upon-Tyne-- but I faced the challenge and was victorious! Was it worth it? A definite "yes."
This concludes the English portion of my great adventures in Great Britain. Now on to Scotland.
Click link for slideshow:
Alnwick Castle
Music: Theme from Harry Potter
Additional Information: http://www.alnwickcastle.com/
http://www.visitalnwick.org.uk/
http://www.travellady.com/Issues/May04/698HarryPotter.htm
Fitting Alnwick Castle into my plans and getting there were challenges, but what noble quest does not require bravery, perseverance, and all those other knightly virtues? Although the name of this enchanting castle is not widely known, one is very likely to have a sense of deja-vu upon arrival, as it has been used in the movies Becket, Ivanhoe, Robin Hood: Prince of Thieves, Elizabeth, Mary Queen of Scots, and The Dark Knight, and has played Hogwarts (modified by some fancy graphics) in parts of the Harry Potter movies. It has hosted Antique Roadshows, Robin of Sherwood, Blackadder, and other t.v. productions. It is called the Windsor of the North. Indeed, it is the quintessential medieval castle.
Alnwick was involved in the early border wars, and my Scottish ancestors William I was captured here for ransom and Malcolm III was killed in battle. But it became the home and castle of the Percy's who have ruled Nothumberland as lords, earls, and dukes since 1309. Harry "Hotspur" Percy was born there in 1364 as was the present 12th Duke of Northumberland in 1956. This spring the Shakespeare Theater in Washington DC has been presenting Richard II and Henry V in repertoire, and I find myself again transported into the tangled tale of medieval maneuverings.
Hotspur's father was made Earl of Northumberland at the coronation of Richard II (1377), but he and Hotspur became powerful allies to Henry Bolingbroke (Henry IV) in usurping Richard's crown in 1399. But, their changed loyalties faded quickly. Hotspur rebelled and was beheaded by the king only four years later. Hotspur's father was pardoned, but killed in another rebellion against the king only two years after that (1405). Shakespeare was intrigued by Hotspur and subtitled Henry IV Part I as the "Life and Death of Henry surnamed Hotspur."
Hotspur's son went to Scotland until Henry V became king and pardoned him. He then managed the troublesome Northumberland border lands until being killed with his son in the first battle of the War of the Roses. The next Earl supported Richard III, but was later murdered by his peasants for collecting taxes for the Tutor victor, Henry VII. The seventh earl supported Mary Queen of Scots against Elizabeth and was executed in York and his son was later mysteriously murdered in the Tower of London. Amazing that they have gotten to a 12th Duke!
On the tops of the turrets and walls stand stone warriors and builders poised to protect and care for the castle. Under their watchful eyes, one wanders into the courtyards where, instead of makers of armor and merchants of cloth, one finds a delightful tea room and shop. But this was not the day when the wizard would appear, archery would be taught, or young boys and girls would compete in the quest for knighthood or the fearsome dragon quest. (They have some great kid activities). Nor did I have time to wander outside the castle walls to see its remarkable gardens created under more peaceable dukes and duchesses. However, I delighted myself in the elegance of the "sumptuous" castle chambers with exquisite paintings and furnishings and a library that could take a lifetime to peruse-- yet it also seemed personal and cozy. I liked these rooms better than those I had seen in the royal residences. I enjoyed a solitary walk on the castle walls that windy, cloudy afternoon.
Ah, but I have digressed from my noble quest to reach the castle. I left one day in Edinburgh at the end of my trip to visit surrounding areas. So, I went to Stirling Castle in the morning, took the train back to Edinburgh and then a train south to Alnmouth (England). Alnmouth is a whistle stop town that is not on all of the Newcastle to Edinburgh runs. I then caught the bus for a "15-minute" ride to Alnwick which took longer due to all the in-town stops. From the bus depot, I figured out the unmarked way to the castle. That left less than 2 hours to closing, so I couldn't see both the castle and gardens. Leaving, I had a long wait for my faithful (but slow) steed of steel (bus) which wound its way back to Alnmouth, giving me only minutes to make a run for the last train to Edinburgh that day. It would be easier by car or a bus from Newcastle-upon-Tyne-- but I faced the challenge and was victorious! Was it worth it? A definite "yes."
This concludes the English portion of my great adventures in Great Britain. Now on to Scotland.
Click link for slideshow:
Alnwick Castle
Music: Theme from Harry Potter
Additional Information: http://www.alnwickcastle.com/
http://www.visitalnwick.org.uk/
http://www.travellady.com/Issues/May04/698HarryPotter.htm
Tuesday, March 9, 2010
Hadrian's Wall
July 2009
I confess: I love rock piles. I really get excited about rubble that someone I don't know, in a time long distant, made into a home or a palace or even just a wall. I planned this trip around 3 H's: Harrogate, the Highlands, and Hadrian's Wall.
My Roman history book puts Hadrian down as one of the "good emperors," although the Jews in revolt in 131 AD didn't think so. He was born in Italica, Spain (near Seville), a place where I took far too many pictures of Roman rock ruins on a prior trip. Hadrian liked to build and travel and establish boundaries for the massive Roman Empire. And so, in 122 AD, he ordered a defensive wall built from sea to sea (73 miles) across northern England. For over 300 years, it defined the border between the civilized Romans and those nasty northern barbarians ( as they saw it). To this day, remnants of the wall, towers, forts, bridges, milecastles (outlooks placed every mile), and towns stretch in a line from Newington-upon-Tyne in the east past Carlisle in the west.
From documentaries, I had the impression that the wall was almost inaccessible and could be found and traveled only with difficulty. To the contrary, I discovered the AD122 bus (named for the date the wall started and painted unmistakably with wall scenes), runs back and forth along the wall all day, transporting tourists, hikers with dogs and backpacks, and locals with bikes between sites and towns. Many folk have the enjoyable leisure to "walk the wall" for a few miles or days, using the bus rarely. Any way you choose to go, it is a memorable adventure.
You can start the AD122 bus route in Newcastle, but I chose to start and end my trip in Hexham My first stop was Chesters, a Roman calvary fort that was being invaded that day by a curious school group. Nice rock remains of barracks and baths in lush fields.
Then on to Housesteads (Vercovicium)which is the most photographed/painted of the sites, as the fort sits atop a high ridge overlooking green rolling meadows filled with peaceable sheep. Hard to believe this area ever needed defending. They say walking this segment of the wall is "strenuous," but "magnificent." Housesteads has the best view, but my next stop, Vindolanda, had the most to see.
There are active archaeological digs going on in this Roman town by the wall with some of the most remarkable Roman finds in Britain. The ruins and reproductions of the fort and town are interesting, but the real jewel is the museum down a long hill. It was in Vindolanda that they found over 1,400 wooden writing tablets that have somehow survived in the cold mud for nearly 2,000 years.
Letters between officers and wives, household accounts, an invitation from a lady to her birthday party, supply lists provide a priceless peek into Roman life on the wall. The British Museum holds the originals, but this little museum had a fascinating display on their discovery and significance. In addition, there are textiles ( including a Roman sock missing its pair), weapons, jewelry, a very rare horse hair crest for a Roman helmet, early Christian symbols, and more. I had not allowed adequate time to take it all in before I had to catch the bus for my final stop at Birdoswald where one sees some of the best-preserved gate portals on the wall and the remains of the granaries for feeding man and beast.
As the gates at Birdoswald shut behind me at closing time, I sat on a rock in the shade of a spreading tree, listening for the sounds of marching legions, the chatter of friendly women, and the laughter of little children who once marched, visited, and played along the wall. For a moment, I thought I heard them, but then my AD122 time machine (bus) arrived to transport me forward almost 1,900 years to head home for dinner.
Click here for slide show:
Hadrian's Wall
Music: Rozsa, Quo Vadis--Ave Caesar, Music Inspired by the Romans
More Information: http://www.hadrians-wall.org/
I confess: I love rock piles. I really get excited about rubble that someone I don't know, in a time long distant, made into a home or a palace or even just a wall. I planned this trip around 3 H's: Harrogate, the Highlands, and Hadrian's Wall.
My Roman history book puts Hadrian down as one of the "good emperors," although the Jews in revolt in 131 AD didn't think so. He was born in Italica, Spain (near Seville), a place where I took far too many pictures of Roman rock ruins on a prior trip. Hadrian liked to build and travel and establish boundaries for the massive Roman Empire. And so, in 122 AD, he ordered a defensive wall built from sea to sea (73 miles) across northern England. For over 300 years, it defined the border between the civilized Romans and those nasty northern barbarians ( as they saw it). To this day, remnants of the wall, towers, forts, bridges, milecastles (outlooks placed every mile), and towns stretch in a line from Newington-upon-Tyne in the east past Carlisle in the west.
From documentaries, I had the impression that the wall was almost inaccessible and could be found and traveled only with difficulty. To the contrary, I discovered the AD122 bus (named for the date the wall started and painted unmistakably with wall scenes), runs back and forth along the wall all day, transporting tourists, hikers with dogs and backpacks, and locals with bikes between sites and towns. Many folk have the enjoyable leisure to "walk the wall" for a few miles or days, using the bus rarely. Any way you choose to go, it is a memorable adventure.
You can start the AD122 bus route in Newcastle, but I chose to start and end my trip in Hexham My first stop was Chesters, a Roman calvary fort that was being invaded that day by a curious school group. Nice rock remains of barracks and baths in lush fields.
Then on to Housesteads (Vercovicium)which is the most photographed/painted of the sites, as the fort sits atop a high ridge overlooking green rolling meadows filled with peaceable sheep. Hard to believe this area ever needed defending. They say walking this segment of the wall is "strenuous," but "magnificent." Housesteads has the best view, but my next stop, Vindolanda, had the most to see.
There are active archaeological digs going on in this Roman town by the wall with some of the most remarkable Roman finds in Britain. The ruins and reproductions of the fort and town are interesting, but the real jewel is the museum down a long hill. It was in Vindolanda that they found over 1,400 wooden writing tablets that have somehow survived in the cold mud for nearly 2,000 years.
Letters between officers and wives, household accounts, an invitation from a lady to her birthday party, supply lists provide a priceless peek into Roman life on the wall. The British Museum holds the originals, but this little museum had a fascinating display on their discovery and significance. In addition, there are textiles ( including a Roman sock missing its pair), weapons, jewelry, a very rare horse hair crest for a Roman helmet, early Christian symbols, and more. I had not allowed adequate time to take it all in before I had to catch the bus for my final stop at Birdoswald where one sees some of the best-preserved gate portals on the wall and the remains of the granaries for feeding man and beast.
As the gates at Birdoswald shut behind me at closing time, I sat on a rock in the shade of a spreading tree, listening for the sounds of marching legions, the chatter of friendly women, and the laughter of little children who once marched, visited, and played along the wall. For a moment, I thought I heard them, but then my AD122 time machine (bus) arrived to transport me forward almost 1,900 years to head home for dinner.
Click here for slide show:
Hadrian's Wall
Music: Rozsa, Quo Vadis--Ave Caesar, Music Inspired by the Romans
More Information: http://www.hadrians-wall.org/
Saturday, March 6, 2010
Hexham
July 2009
It was Hexham that I chose as the starting point for my journey along Hadrian's wall. This charming town was awarded "Country Life's Best Market Town" in 2005 and still seemed deserving of that title during my visit in 2009. There appeared to be many good choices of Bed and Breakfasts along Hadrian's Wall if you are walking or driving, but, in the end, I chose practicality to maximize my limited time: the trains run from Newcastle and the official AD122 Hadrian's Wall Bus stops at the Visitor's Center near the train station. I selected the old stone Beaumont Hotel (no elevators, but helpful staff and only three floors), conveniently located within blocks of the historic Hexham Abbey, medieval Moothall, Old Goal and Market Square.
Hexham has not always been a quiet English town. It fell victim to Viking raids and over 300 years of border fighting between England and Scotland. It was burned by William Wallace (Braveheart); forced to pay ransom to Robert the Bruce; attacked in the Battle of Hexham in the War of Roses (1464); raided by the infamous, lawless Border Reivers in the 16th century; and bloodied in a riot against the militia in 1761, leaving 51 dead in Market Square. No wonder England chose this town to build its first real prison (not just some castle dungeon). The Gaol has exhibits about those who "fought, kidnapped, blackmailed, and killed each other in an effort to exercise control over a lawless track of land"--hardly the tranquil Hexham I saw. (Lonely Planet, Great Britain)
Although it had been a long day since I had left Whitby in the morning, I decided to take an "amble" around town after I arrived in the light rain. Even though it stays light in summer until after 9 pm this far north, most places keep their year-round hours, closing at 5-6 pm. Still, there was much to see in this very walkable town--a lovely park with folks bowling in the rain (they don't seem to cancel much for rain in England), medieval buildings, a 13th century bridge nearly hidden by ivy, and the statue of a very determined local hero from the Boer Wars.
I had been disappointed that I hadn't arrived in time to see the inside of the 12th century Augustinian Abbey with its Saxon crypt, but, as I was later returning to the hotel in heavier rain, I joined a small group (some locals, some tourists) for an Evening-song service in the chapel. The choir consisted of the young and the old, singing with their hearts, even if some high notes eluded them. It reminded me of LDS ward choirs I have sung in. I felt snug and at peace as I watched evening come through stained glass windows and listened to holy melodies accompanied by rain on the roof. I was glad I had only to hurry in the storm down the street to my hotel to enjoy a delicious dinner served with classical music.
Click link for slideshow:
Hexham
Music: Butterworth, English Idyll No. 1, Visions of England--Our Green and Pleasant Land
More Information: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hexham
http://www.bw-beaumonthotel.co.uk
Labels:
Churches,
UK Hadrian's Wall,
UK Hexham,
UK Northumberland,
Vikings
Thursday, March 4, 2010
North to Northumberland
July 2009
Before this trip, I knew little of Northumberland. The very name brought images of cold and dreary wild places where bloody conflicts waged for centuries between Romans and Picts and Caledonians; Anglo-Saxons and Vikings and Normans; Scots and English. The Romans built Hadrian's wall to try to control the border; The Normans built castles to try to control the defeated Anglo-Saxons. Therefore, I had mixed emotions when I read that Northumberland was finally becoming a popular English holiday location (pleased I had chosen wisely, but hoping it wasn't crowded--it wasn't).
I found mostly blue skies, friendly people, beautiful rugged seascapes seen from the train, and peaceful sheep grazing on verdant hills. Part of the the Cheviot Hills are in Northumberland, and the prevalence of Cheviot sheep reminded me of my brief Cheviot sheep tending days in town when I raised Elsa Marie and her twins William Lloyd and Juliette for spinning wool.
But this post is really about a town and a city on the way to Northumberland. I had intended to stop at Newcastle-Upon-Tyne only to secure my luggage at a "left luggage" room at the train station, so I could travel unencumbered to Durham before making my way to Hexham for the night. I had landed here decades before after taking a ferry from Norway during my family's European summer, but we quickly left this industrial city for places "more interesting." However, I was low on cash which ended up taking me on a hurried walking tour up and down the hilly streets, discovering a pleasant city, but no exchange or bank willing to help a non-customer. Finally, I found a friendly and compassionate Bank of Scotland manager.
Returning to the station, I found myself drawn to the remnants of a castle by the Tyne River, even though most guidebooks pass it over and recommend Newcastle for its museums and wild night life. William the Conqueror's eldest son built a "new castle" there in 1080 over Roman and Saxon ruins. In England, "new" is a relative term. In 1172, King Henry II rebuilt, and later his son, King John, remodeled this "new castle" which was critical to the defense of the Tyne. The remaining keep has been heavily restored, but it was still easy to imagine the knights and ladies in the great hall, the king and queen in their chambers, each with a separate toilet area, and servants scurrying through the stone hallways to pull water from the interior well. There was a great view of the city and its many bridges from the tower. I was a little sad, though, that this former bastion of the kings was now largely forgotten and obscured by a busy railway station.
I caught the train for the half hour trip to Durham, walked the long and steep road to the medieval town square, and followed the crowds up the hill to the famous Durham Cathedral and the university housed in the old castle. The Norman-Romanesque cathedral was started by Norman Benedictines in 1093 and is considered among the most beautiful churches in England. It contains the remains of both St. Cuthbert and the Venerable Bede (first English historian). The Galilee chapel is reported to imitate the lighting in the Great Mosque of Cordoba, Spain (which I love). I say reported, because I saw little of the remarkable interior, as it turned out to be graduation day for the university, and they were holding the convocation in the cathedral.
However, I enjoyed watching graduates in robes (very English); walking through the "Hogwarts" cloisters; and admiring the cellars and treasures which were free for the day. Being too tired to walk back up to the station, I waited a long time with a friendly English lady at the old town square, talking about her granddaughter in America until the local bus showed up which was not running on its usual schedule. Not much that day had run on my planned schedule, but I finally got back to Newcastle, picked up my luggage, and made the train to Hexham, exhausted from a day of delightful surprises.
Click link for slideshow:
Newcastle-upon-Tyne and Durham
Music: Clarke, Trumpet Aire, Spirit of England--Land of Hope and Glory
More information:http://www.visitnorthumberland.com/
http://www.englandsnortheast.co.uk/NewcastleuponTyne.html
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Durham_Cathedral
Before this trip, I knew little of Northumberland. The very name brought images of cold and dreary wild places where bloody conflicts waged for centuries between Romans and Picts and Caledonians; Anglo-Saxons and Vikings and Normans; Scots and English. The Romans built Hadrian's wall to try to control the border; The Normans built castles to try to control the defeated Anglo-Saxons. Therefore, I had mixed emotions when I read that Northumberland was finally becoming a popular English holiday location (pleased I had chosen wisely, but hoping it wasn't crowded--it wasn't).
I found mostly blue skies, friendly people, beautiful rugged seascapes seen from the train, and peaceful sheep grazing on verdant hills. Part of the the Cheviot Hills are in Northumberland, and the prevalence of Cheviot sheep reminded me of my brief Cheviot sheep tending days in town when I raised Elsa Marie and her twins William Lloyd and Juliette for spinning wool.
But this post is really about a town and a city on the way to Northumberland. I had intended to stop at Newcastle-Upon-Tyne only to secure my luggage at a "left luggage" room at the train station, so I could travel unencumbered to Durham before making my way to Hexham for the night. I had landed here decades before after taking a ferry from Norway during my family's European summer, but we quickly left this industrial city for places "more interesting." However, I was low on cash which ended up taking me on a hurried walking tour up and down the hilly streets, discovering a pleasant city, but no exchange or bank willing to help a non-customer. Finally, I found a friendly and compassionate Bank of Scotland manager.
Returning to the station, I found myself drawn to the remnants of a castle by the Tyne River, even though most guidebooks pass it over and recommend Newcastle for its museums and wild night life. William the Conqueror's eldest son built a "new castle" there in 1080 over Roman and Saxon ruins. In England, "new" is a relative term. In 1172, King Henry II rebuilt, and later his son, King John, remodeled this "new castle" which was critical to the defense of the Tyne. The remaining keep has been heavily restored, but it was still easy to imagine the knights and ladies in the great hall, the king and queen in their chambers, each with a separate toilet area, and servants scurrying through the stone hallways to pull water from the interior well. There was a great view of the city and its many bridges from the tower. I was a little sad, though, that this former bastion of the kings was now largely forgotten and obscured by a busy railway station.
I caught the train for the half hour trip to Durham, walked the long and steep road to the medieval town square, and followed the crowds up the hill to the famous Durham Cathedral and the university housed in the old castle. The Norman-Romanesque cathedral was started by Norman Benedictines in 1093 and is considered among the most beautiful churches in England. It contains the remains of both St. Cuthbert and the Venerable Bede (first English historian). The Galilee chapel is reported to imitate the lighting in the Great Mosque of Cordoba, Spain (which I love). I say reported, because I saw little of the remarkable interior, as it turned out to be graduation day for the university, and they were holding the convocation in the cathedral.
However, I enjoyed watching graduates in robes (very English); walking through the "Hogwarts" cloisters; and admiring the cellars and treasures which were free for the day. Being too tired to walk back up to the station, I waited a long time with a friendly English lady at the old town square, talking about her granddaughter in America until the local bus showed up which was not running on its usual schedule. Not much that day had run on my planned schedule, but I finally got back to Newcastle, picked up my luggage, and made the train to Hexham, exhausted from a day of delightful surprises.
Click link for slideshow:
Newcastle-upon-Tyne and Durham
Music: Clarke, Trumpet Aire, Spirit of England--Land of Hope and Glory
More information:http://www.visitnorthumberland.com/
http://www.englandsnortheast.co.uk/NewcastleuponTyne.html
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Durham_Cathedral
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