Alnwick Castle

July 2009

Fitting Alnwick Castle into my plans and getting there were challenges, but what noble quest does not require bravery, perseverance, and all those other knightly virtues?  Although the name of this enchanting castle is not widely known, one is very likely to have a sense of deja-vu upon arrival, as it has been used in the movies Becket, Ivanhoe, Robin Hood: Prince of Thieves, Elizabeth, Mary Queen of Scots, and The Dark Knight, and has played Hogwarts (modified by some fancy graphics)  in parts of the Harry Potter movies.  It has hosted Antique Roadshows, Robin of Sherwood, Blackadder, and other t.v. productions.  It is called the Windsor of the North.  Indeed, it is the quintessential medieval castle.

Alnwick was involved in the early border wars, and my Scottish ancestors William I was captured here for ransom and Malcolm III was killed in battle.  But it became the home and castle of the Percy's who have ruled Nothumberland as lords, earls, and dukes since 1309.  Harry "Hotspur" Percy was born there in 1364 as was the present 12th Duke of Northumberland in 1956. This spring the Shakespeare Theater in Washington DC has been presenting Richard II and Henry V in repertoire, and I find myself again transported into the tangled tale of medieval maneuverings.

Hotspur's father was made Earl of Northumberland at the coronation of Richard II (1377), but he and Hotspur became powerful allies to  Henry Bolingbroke (Henry IV) in usurping Richard's crown in 1399.     But, their changed loyalties faded quickly.  Hotspur rebelled and was beheaded by the king only four years later.  Hotspur's father was pardoned, but killed  in another rebellion against the king only two years after that (1405).  Shakespeare was intrigued by Hotspur and subtitled Henry IV Part I as the "Life and Death of Henry surnamed Hotspur."

Hotspur's son went to Scotland until Henry V became king and pardoned him.  He then managed the troublesome Northumberland border lands until being killed with his son  in the first battle of the War of the Roses. The next Earl supported Richard III, but was later murdered by his peasants for collecting taxes for the Tutor victor, Henry VII.    The seventh earl supported Mary Queen of Scots against Elizabeth and was executed in York and his son was later mysteriously murdered in the Tower of London. Amazing that they have gotten to a 12th Duke!

On the tops of the turrets and walls stand stone warriors and builders poised to protect and care for the castle.  Under their watchful eyes, one wanders into the courtyards where, instead of makers of armor and merchants of cloth, one finds a delightful tea room and shop.  But this was not the day when the wizard would appear, archery would be taught, or young boys and girls would compete in the quest for knighthood or the fearsome dragon quest. (They have some great kid activities).  Nor did I have time to wander outside the castle walls to see its remarkable gardens created under more peaceable dukes and duchesses.  However, I delighted myself in the elegance of the "sumptuous" castle chambers with  exquisite paintings and furnishings and a library that could take a lifetime to peruse-- yet it also seemed personal and cozy.  I liked these rooms better than those I had seen in the royal residences.  I enjoyed a solitary walk on the castle walls that windy, cloudy afternoon.

Ah, but I have digressed from my noble quest to reach the castle.  I left one day in Edinburgh at the end of my trip to visit surrounding areas. So, I went to Stirling Castle in the morning, took the train back to Edinburgh and then a train south to Alnmouth (England).  Alnmouth is a whistle stop town that is not on all of the Newcastle to Edinburgh runs. I then caught the bus for a "15-minute" ride to  Alnwick which took longer due to all the in-town stops.  From the bus depot, I figured out the unmarked way to the castle. That left less than 2 hours to closing, so I couldn't see both the castle and gardens.  Leaving, I had a long wait for my faithful (but slow) steed of steel (bus) which wound its way back to Alnmouth, giving me only minutes to make a run for the last train to Edinburgh that day. It would be easier by car or a bus from Newcastle-upon-Tyne-- but I faced the challenge and was victorious!  Was it worth it?  A definite "yes."

This concludes the English portion of my great adventures in Great Britain.  Now on to Scotland.
Click link for slideshow:
Alnwick Castle

Music: Theme from Harry Potter
Additional Information: http://www.alnwickcastle.com/
http://www.visitalnwick.org.uk/
http://www.travellady.com/Issues/May04/698HarryPotter.htm