The Mystery of Viminacium, Serbia

July 2010
I have been fortunate to visit amazing Roman ruins:  the forum of Rome;  Pompeii, Italy;  Ephesus, Turkey; Bath, England; Baalbek, Lebanon (in my teens);  but I had never heard of Viminacium, Serbia before this trip.  We made port on the Danube near  a small Serbian town called Kostolac with its mix of well-kept homes and gypsy shanties, and then drove through corn fields, past the  power plants and open-pit strip mining to an expansive field with three large, tented areas.   It hardly looked like a favorite vacation retreat of Roman emperors or one of the most important Roman  cities and military camps in the 1st-4th centuries AD.

But Viminacium didn't disappoint me.  As I looked over the corn fields, I was reminded of Saint-Exupery's story, The Little Prince, when he landed in the Sahara desert and met the (imaginary) boy prince from another planet.   The Little Prince taught him that what is important is often invisible to the eye, such as water hidden somewhere in the desert, and that one must learn to  see with one's heart, not just rely on what is seen by the eyes.

I was pleased by what I saw at Viminacium, but when I closed my eyes and listened for the bustle of 30,000-40,000 residents, the clamor from an amphitheater filled with 12,000 people, the trumpets and cheers when the emperor approached, I sensed the magnificence of what might lie beneath my feet and was fascinated by what I could not see.  Unlike many Roman ruins, the area was abandoned after Atilla the Hun and other "barbarians" destroyed it in the 5-6th centuries.   It was covered over the centuries with dirt and rubble, not new cities.

Viminacium became an important outpost at the northern border of the Roman Empire in the 1st century AD.  Emperor Trajan used it as his headquarter in the Dacian Wars;  Emperor Septimius Severs named his son Carcalla his successor there in 211 AD.  And the little known Emperor Hostilian died and was buried there in 251 AD under suspicious circumstances.

They had baths, a temple to Minerva, a circus, amphitheater, villas, and tombs decorated with beautiful tomb frescoes.  They call one woman their "Mona Lisa," and she is exceptionally beautiful and life-like after all these centuries.  Coins, gold and silver jewelry, glass tableware, and early Christian symbols (photo) are among its other treasures. But only a small portion of Viminacium has been uncovered and is  available to be seen by the public: part of the baths, a main gate area, and a few of the extensive tombs.

However, I would nominate Viminacium for an award for trying so hard to show off what they have.  We were welcomed  by a wealthy "Roman family" who took us to the tombs where we were greeted and escorted by the silent guide of the underworld, seeking coins (in the Roman tradition)  to take us safely through.  In the dark (but safe) tunnel, we were led to the frescoes and then returned to the world of the living.

We were offered refreshment of Roman wine (or water) in Roman style cups and "played" for our fortunes, each being given a turn to pick up a pottery shard with our fortune on it.  My pottery advised me :  "Never give up." (so I'm still writing this blog) Working archaeologists told us about the sites.  In their small gift shop, they sold a clever board game which I brought home, Mystery of the Emperor's Death, as well as pieces  from the site not considered important enough to keep. (I wish I had bought more of those.)  Unfortunately, their only books about their finds were too large and heavy for today's luggage weight limits.  A small booklet of their major finds would have been appreciated.

So the real mystery of Viminacium is not who killed the Emperor Hostilian, but what lies under our feet and whether we will ever know.  An unusual family tomb was found on the power plant land, but is not accessible to the public because of safety.  Strip mining is disturbing the ground.  Some farmers do not want to sell the fertile fields that their families have planted for years.  How should a country balance between food, electricity, and irreplaceable historic ruins?  I tried to capture the dilemma in this photo.  As we left, my heart wanted to shout "Viva, Viminacium Lumen!"  So, yes, go there, encourage those hard-working archaeologists in their struggle to preserve the site.  And if you look with your heart, you will discover  a fascinating segment of the grand portrait of the Roman Empire.

Click link below for slideshow:
Roman, Viminacium
Music:  Rozsa, Ben Hur: Parade of the Charioteers, Music Inspired by the Romans (English Heritage)


 I will take a brief break from my Danube travels to post my first trip last November to New Orleans.  Then, in a few weeks, I will sail on the Danube through the Iron Gates between the Carpathian and Balkan mountains.
More Information:www.viminacium.org.rs/Research/ExcavationSite/?language
en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Viminacium

Belgrade: Tito's Gifts and The House of Flowers

July 2010
To add to my list of Interesting People to Learn More About: Josip Broz Tito, leader of Yugoslavia in one position or another from 1943-1980. When he passed away on May 4, 1980, just before his 88th birthday, he was serving as the life long President of Yugoslavia.  In one of the largest state funerals in history, 128 countries were represented, including leaders from both Communist and non-Communist countries.  Though born in Croatia under the Austro-Hungarian Empire (see Budapest and Vienna posts), he chose to be buried in his simplistically beautiful winter garden known as The House of Flowers (Kuca Cveda) at his residence in Belgrade.  Most of the surrounding rooms now have memorabilia from his life.  Belgrade was the capital of Yugoslavia as well as  the Republic of Serbia.

When traveling, I like to find out how the people view their leaders and compare it to the impressions I have gained through the filter of my American eyes and ears.  I had viewed Tito as a moderate socialist dictator, but did not appreciate how positively many of the people of the former Yugoslavia look back "to the good times" of his rule.  One guide said he went from a brutal to a benevolent dictator as the years went on.  But was this a genuine transformation or a masterful manipulation or something in between?  With the dissolution of Yugoslavia and the Balkan Wars that followed, I can understand why some would look back fondly on those years.

However one views Tito, he was a remarkable leader.  Captured by the Russians in WWI, he became a Bolshevik and returned to the Balkans as a leader in the Communist movement.  He led the Partisan forces against the conquering Nazis and became viewed as the liberator of Yugoslavia in WWII.  He had a strained relationship with Stalin, and at one time told Stalin to stop sending assassins to kill him or he would send Stalin one that wouldn't miss. He defied the Soviets, established cordial relationships with Western nations, and was one of the founders of the Non-Aligned Movement of nations that would not give allegiance to either side of the Cold War.

Over the years, he allowed more free enterprise, greater religious tolerance, more independence to the republics, and opened his borders to travel both in and out of the country.   For many years, Youth Day was held on his birthday when a relay through the country would bring him a torch.   Parts of many of these torches are displayed at the House of Flowers.

But Tito was not without controversy.  His greatest success in establishing "Brotherhood and Unity" came at the price of nationalist suppression in the tempestuous Balkan area.  (Yugoslavia only became a nation in the peace terms of WWI).  In his personal life, Tito had a series of wives and lovers and at one time had 32 residences.  So, in the end, was he a "dictator" or a popular elected leader?  And how did he unify the Balkan states for nearly 40 years--loyalty, fear,  or something else?

On the grounds of his Belgrade residence is the History of Yugoslavia Museum which contains many of the gifts that were given to Tito.  However, rather than gleaming metals or rare jewels, I was impressed that he seemed to treasure the craftsmanship of  the people.  On display are wonderful costumes of the regions of Yugoslavia, musical instruments, and other handmade items.  And what gifts did Tito give to the people?  Independence from Soviet oppression, relative prosperity, and peace.  Only 11 years after his death, that fragile peace disintegrated into the Balkan Wars (see Vukovar post).

Instead of my traditional slideshow, there is a Flicker group of photos of the costumes (my mother would have loved them).   Sorry for the light reflections.  I didn't have my camera's polaroid filter with me.
Click link for Flicker photos: (New problem to work out:  link will take you to Flicker, but it doesn't bring you back to the blog.  You will have to re-enter the blog site for now)
Gifts to Tito


Coming Post: Viva Viminacium, Serbia
Additional Information:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Yugoslavia#1918.E2.80.931928
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Josip_Broz_Tito

Belgrade (Beograd), Serbia

July 2010

When I first looked at my cruise itinerary, I felt curiosity, but also some apprehension, about our journey to Belgrade and through Serbia.  My first minutes driving through Belgrade heightened my concern, as we drove through older, crowded parts of town where tall, crumbling, concrete buildings nearly blocked the sun from the streets.   We passed empty buildings that were bombed in the 1999 NATO attack and the US Embassy with its covered windows.

But I know there are two sides to most cities. My feelings changed when I saw the charming old mosaics from a zoo that opened in 1936 (the original zoo was started in 1730) and  discovered a lovely city of parks, art deco and neo-classical buildings, cafes, stylish shops, and friendly people.   By the end of the day, I found myself comfortably exploring the areas around their famous Knez Mihailova Street and the Republic Square and walking back to the boat on my own.  Serbian uses the Cyrillic alphabet, but a number of signs also use the Roman alphabet--at times even in English which made it easier to get around.  Many people spoke some English, especially those in the shops or selling souvenirs in the middle of the stylish pedestrian streets.

Belgrade is an ancient site. Nearby, there are ruins at Vinca dating from the late-Neolithic period (5500-5000 BC).  They say Belgrade has been conquered and destroyed 44 times, most recently in WWII when the Nazis bombed it to get the city and then by the Allies to get the Nazis out.  It has witnessed 115 battles; had 40 names; and been a capital city 5 times. The Kalemegdan (ruins of a Turkish and later Austrian fortress)  rises above ruins of earlier Roman and medieval fortresses on the bank where the Sava River flows into the Danube.  Today the area is a beautiful park where children play and tourists enjoy vistas over the fortress walls.  We spent a windy, but pleasant, afternoon there.  Across the Sava,  we could see New Belgrade, a newly developed area of modern buildings and exclusive hotels.

In the area of the Patriachate  (home of Patriarch of the Serbian Orthodox Church) is the neoclassical Saborna Church (1836)  with its gilded mosaics and, nearby, is the graceful residence (1831) of the  Princess Ljubica.  They say that the palace of the princess was more beautiful than that of her husband, the prince, although they were designed by the same architect (I wonder if that created any family issues).

Nearby is also an interesting Balkan-style cafe named "At the Question Mark" with a ? as  it's sign.  It is the oldest restaurant in Belgrade (1823).  In 1892, when it's new owners wanted to name it "At the Cathedral Church" due to its proximity to the church on St. Peter's Street,  both the church and authorities objected--it didn't meet the restaurant standards and I guess the Church didn't want to be associated with the first place in town to have a billiard table.  So the owner just put a ? on the sign, and it has been a popular eating place ever since.

I had come to Belgrade looking for a sun hat, as I had forgotten to pack mine, but had not found one as I headed back to the boat.  Then, I spotted a straw hat on the docks where a group of ladies were selling their hand embroidered and crocheted wares.  As we could not speak each other's language,  we bargained with gestures and nods, and I ended up with a "good deal" on the hat as well as a crocheted shawl with a couple of embroidered doilies because I didn't have the right change.  Whatever I paid, it was worth the experience, and I left Belgrade not only with a new hat, but also a new friend.

Click link for slideshow:
Belgrade, Serbia

Music: Ansambl Triola, Da smo se ranije sreli , Kolekcja pesama 2009 (Once again I don't know what the song means, but I enjoyed the Serbian group that performed it on the riverboat)


More information:  http://www.beograd.rs/cms/view.php?id=220 http://www.belgradenet.com/question_mark.html

"Take me home" to Osijek and Aljmas, Croatia

July 2010

Not many miles from Vukovar, we visited Osijek, the fourth largest city in Croatia and a district capital  in eastern Croatia known as Slovania (not to be confused with the countries Slovenia or Slovakia).  After the fall of Vukovar in the Balkan Wars, Osijek and the surrounding towns were taken by the Serbs, but were not as heavily damaged.  (see Vukovar post)  Like other cities on the Danube, Osijek has been under the Romans, Magyars (Hungarians), Turks, Austrians, Germans--to name a few.  We walked around the old fort along the Drava River (which empties into the Danube) and into the Old Town area with its pleasant square and grand old houses.  Osijek today is both an industrial city and a lively university town.

On the outskirts, we had midday entertainment by the Croatia Tambura Band who not only shared lively Croatian tunes, but also reminded us of home with Old Susanna, Rolling Down the River, and Take Me Home Country Roads (John Denver).  I certainly hadn't expected to be singing about going home to West Virginia in Croatia, but coming home is a relevant theme for the area.


One of the most meaningful parts of my entire trip was our lunch in the town of Aljmas.  We were divided into groups of eight to be hosted by Croatian families who had experienced the Balkan
Wars and were willing to share their food and stories.  I went to the home of Maria and Ivan who run a bed and breakfast.  As their English was limited, their young adult niece, Martina, translated for us.  Martina is a physics teacher at a secondary school in a nearby town.  Aljmas is located at a beautiful stretch of the Danube where fishermen and families come to enjoy a few days on the river.  As we walked to their home, I was impressed by the lovely gardens and homes in this area.

Maria was a wonderful cook, and we enjoyed roasted chicken with fresh-from-the-garden vegetables and a delicious ground nut and custard dessert.  Ivan had made his own maraskino, a  cherry liqueur  that is a speciality in the area.  I had instead a wonderful fresh visne, a sour cherry non-alchoholic drink also made by Ivan. (I loved it in Turkey as well.)

Then, at the request of the guests, Martina shared their story.  They were living in Aljmas when Vukovar
fell, and, when the Serbs were at the outskirts of town, they had to escape at night by the Danube with a few possessions they bundled together.  Martina's family also lived in the town, so the families went together.  They expected that they would be back in a couple of days or weeks.  Around this time Ivan had a stroke and needed hospitalization in Osijek, but when that city was also attacked, they were sent to a hospital in Zagreb, the capital.  A doctor there had compassion on them and allowed the families to stay in her country home outside the city.  With great insight, Martina shared that during the next seven years, they were able to find happiness in the midst of their unhappiness.

When they returned in 1998, their home was still standing, but everything in it had been taken--the furniture, the family photos, the heirlooms.  Like the other homes in the community, it had been taken and lived in by others.  But their family was grateful to be home together.  The beloved old town church was destroyed, but Maria noted that a church is more than a building-- it is the people who worship together.  The church has now been rebuilt in a modern style which does not please many in the town.  I was impressed that they could tell us their story without bitterness and were able to recognize those things of greatest value.  As Martina said, "You just have to move on."  Martina is engaged, and she and her fiance plan to build a house in Aljmas.  And so life does move on to another generation.  Thank you, Ivan, Maria, and Martina for not only sharing your home, but your hearts.

Click link for slideshow:  
Osijek and Aljmas
Music:  Track 7 from CD of Croatia Tambura Band:  I don't have the name of the tracks and don't know what the song is about.  I hope it is a happy and good song.
More Information:  http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Osijek