Not many miles from Vukovar, we visited Osijek, the fourth largest city in Croatia and a district capital in eastern Croatia known as Slovania (not to be confused with the countries Slovenia or Slovakia). After the fall of Vukovar in the Balkan Wars, Osijek and the surrounding towns were taken by the Serbs, but were not as heavily damaged. (see Vukovar post) Like other cities on the Danube, Osijek has been under the Romans, Magyars (Hungarians), Turks, Austrians, Germans--to name a few. We walked around the old fort along the Drava River (which empties into the Danube) and into the Old Town area with its pleasant square and grand old houses. Osijek today is both an industrial city and a lively university town. 
One of the most meaningful parts of my entire trip was our lunch in the town of Aljmas. We were divided into groups of eight to be hosted by Croatian families who had experienced the BalkanWars and were willing to share their food and stories. I went to the home of Maria and Ivan who run a bed and breakfast. As their English was limited, their young adult niece, Martina, translated for us. Martina is a physics teacher at a secondary school in a nearby town. Aljmas is located at a beautiful stretch of the Danube where fishermen and families come to enjoy a few days on the river. As we walked to their home, I was impressed by the lovely gardens and homes in this area.
Maria was a wonderful cook, and we enjoyed roasted chicken with fresh-from-the-garden vegetables and a delicious ground nut and custard dessert. Ivan had made his own maraskino, a cherry liqueur that is a speciality in the area. I had instead a wonderful fresh visne, a sour cherry non-alchoholic drink also made by Ivan. (I loved it in Turkey as well.)
Then, at the request of the guests, Martina shared their story. They were living in Aljmas when Vukovar
fell, and, when the Serbs were at the outskirts of town, they had to escape at night by the Danube with a few possessions they bundled together. Martina's family also lived in the town, so the families went together. They expected that they would be back in a couple of days or weeks. Around this time Ivan had a stroke and needed hospitalization in Osijek, but when that city was also attacked, they were sent to a hospital in Zagreb, the capital. A doctor there had compassion on them and allowed the families to stay in her country home outside the city. With great insight, Martina shared that during the next seven years, they were able to find happiness in the midst of their unhappiness. 
When they returned in 1998, their home was still standing, but everything in it had been taken--the furniture, the family photos, the heirlooms. Like the other homes in the community, it had been taken and lived in by others. But their family was grateful to be home together. The beloved old town church was destroyed, but Maria noted that a church is more than a building-- it is the people who worship together. The church has now been rebuilt in a modern style which does not please many in the town. I was impressed that they could tell us their story without bitterness and were able to recognize those things of greatest value. As Martina said, "You just have to move on." Martina is engaged, and she and her fiance plan to build a house in Aljmas. And so life does move on to another generation. Thank you, Ivan, Maria, and Martina for not only sharing your home, but your hearts.Click link for slideshow:
Osijek and Aljmas
Music: Track 7 from CD of Croatia Tambura Band: I don't have the name of the tracks and don't know what the song is about. I hope it is a happy and good song.
More Information: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Osijek
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