Vidin is the first Bulgarian port city on the Danube where we docked. After climbing the rocks of Belogradchik in the morning, we returned to explore this ancient town. Its story starts much like other Danube cities: the Celts showed up in the 3rd century BC, followed by the Romans, then the Byzantines, the Hungarians and the Ottoman Turks. But, Vidin also had an important role in the independent First (681-1014) and Second (1185-1396) Bulgarian Kingdoms. At one time, the Bulgarian Kingdom stretched from the Black Sea to Budapest and the Dneiper River (Ukraine) to the Adriatic.
Along the Danube River in Vidin, there rises a striking fortress that was built over the ruins of a Roman tower in the 10th century. Legend says that the king had three daughters: Vida, Kula, and Gamza. Nearing death, he gave each daughter a third of the kingdom. Kula and Gamza married warlike, drunkard, and no-good nobles, whereas Vida, the eldest and wisest, never married. Instead, she built this wonderful fort for her city. The people called it Baba Vida. Its name made me think of intrigues and conquests like those out of the Tales of Arabian Knights. Alas, I found out that "baba" means "grandmother." So the fearsome fort that defended kingdoms for over 700 years was really just "Granny Vida's place."
We moved through the fortress quickly to a stage inside the walls where a youth folk dance troupe performed Bulgarian dances. It reminded me of my youthful experience in a folk dance group. The day had gotten even hotter, but they gave a spirited performance in their layers of brightly-colored costumes.Instead of my usual slideshow, I have attached short video clips of their dancing as well as dancing we saw a few days later in the Payak Mehana Restaurant in Arbanasi, Bulgaria.
Christianity came early to Bulgaria in 864, and, Bulgarians proudly point out, it was Bulgarian priests who invented the Cyrillic alphabet which was later adopted by the Slavic nations. Vidin reflects a history of varied religious backgrounds with a cathedral, other Christian churches, a mosque and synagogue. 
Near the port was a Memorial to the Victims of Communism. It reminded me of my friend Julia's story, the Bulgarian young adult I met while studying in France. Julia grew up with her parents and younger brother in Sophia. Her father was a dental technician, and, like many, could not support his family decently on the state salary or provide patients with the quality of care he thought they should have. He began secretly and illegally to see patients in his home. Julia remembered the fear of being discovered by the secret police whenever there was an unexpected knock at the door.An opportunity came for ten dental technicians from all of Bulgaria to go to Algeria for 2 years. His cooperative had one slot. They decided to draw lots. Her father got the slip that said "yes". The others thought is unfair because he had joined the lab only a few months before. They decided to draw again. He got it again. They drew 6 times, and he got "yes" every time. The last time , he was the last to choose and he still got "yes." Though it was an atheistic state, they all agree it was a miracle. At last they had to agreed to let him go, and his family joined him a few months later.
Bulgaria allowed half the family to return via France, but the rest had to return directly to Bulgaria to keep the family from defecting. Julia's family got the documents "altered" and they all escaped to France. Julia's family always felt that God had watching over them and leading them to freedom. 
Julia stayed with my family several summers to work for Voice of America. Eventually, her family immigrated. They taught me so much about freedom. In 1991, after the communist government had fallen, Julia's parents returned to Bulgaria as the first LDS (Mormon) Mission President for Bulgaria. They had not expected to see such freedom in Bulgaria in their lives.
And now I was in Bulgaria, the land they had loved. If you get there--take your time. There's really no reason to rush.
Next post: The Black Sea and Varna's Gold
Click below for video clips:
Bulgarian Dances
More information:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/History_of_Bulgaria
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