There are many remarkable things about Kyiv (see UA Kyiv on sidebar), but one cannot go through the city without catching a glimmer of its plentiful and glistening golden domes. As noted in my post "On the Streets of Kyiv," Christianity came early to this city. Early texts claim that the Apostle Andrew himself came to this area and dedicated it to Christianity, but it was hundreds of years later that Prince Volodmyr (Vladimir the Great) and his Rus people were converted to Christianity in 988. Shortly after his baptism, he married Princess Anna, sister of Basil, a Byzantine emperor.
Byzantium was still the stronghold of Eastern Orthodox Christianity, and, in 1037, Kyiv's Prince Yaroslav started to build their own St. Sophia Cathedral to honor the great Aya Sophia Cathedral in Constantinople (Hagia Sophia in today's Istanbul). Sophia means wisdom in Greek. Kyiv's almost a- thousand- year- old cathedral is graced with thirteen green (representing life) domes topped with gold (representing Christ and the Holy Spirit) spires. Stepping inside, I was transported through time and space to the era of the powerful and extravagant Byzantine Empire. Whispered memories of kings being crowned and buried, of foreign ambassadors being received, of faithful priests, monks, and peasants echo in the vast domes, arches, mosaics, and frescos of the church. One third of the original 11th century frescoes and mosaics remain and restoration of others is in progress. In the apse, one immediately notices a 6-meter mosaic of Mary, the Mother of God, but looking up in the main dome one can find the mosaic of Christ, the Pancrator (Almighty). I like this icon best in orthodox churches, as it depicts Christ in his glory, not his suffering.
The shadowy coolness of the cathedral was a welcome relief from the heat, as we wandered through its maze of side chambers. The Soviets intended to destroy it in their godless society, but they were courting political favor with the French who greatly admired St. Sophia. And so, this ancient treasure was saved. In other cathedrals, I was able to pay to take pictures, but no photos were permitted of the interior of St. Sophia. I don't think they could have captured its atmosphere and magnificence, anyway.
Along the Dneiper River is another important religious center--The Kyiv Pechersk Lavra. In 1051, a Rus monk, Anthony, returned from the Greek Mount Athos Monastery and secluded himself in a cave for worship. Other hermits soon joined him, so he moved further away. Soon a monastery evolved with a strict monastic code. The relics and bodies of many of these early ascetics remain in good condition today which many Orthodox view as part of the miracles and mysteries of God associated with this holy site. Being respectfully dressed, we went into some of the caves and the surrounding 14 churches. A modern and fun touch, both at St. Sophia and the Lavra, was sculpture / mosaics made from the brightly decorated Ukrainian pysanski eggs.
With a population of 50,000 in 11th century Kyiv, there were 400 churches. Unfortunately, much was destroyed in the invasion by the Mongol-Tartars in 1240. Many new and ornate cathedrals were built in the following centuries until the 20th Century (see post on Kyiv's Hard Times). I especially liked St. Andrew's Cathedral with it teal-colored domes that looked like velvet with gold decoration. The interiors of many of these churches has had to be restored or redone. Some are painted in a pleasant Art Deco style.
Under Soviet domination a number of churches were destroyed (notably St. Michael's pastel blue cathedral across the square from St. Sophia). Others were turned into recreational or scientific facilities. The beautiful paintings by Victor Vasnetsov in St. Vladimir's Cathedral, built for the 900th anniversary of the baptism of the Rus, were preserved because the church was turned into an anti- religion museum. Some churches were severely damaged during the WW II battles of Kyiv. However, even after 70 years of the atheistic communist regime, Kyivites retained their faith in God and rebuilt and returned to their churches when freedom was restored.
Click below for slideshow:
Kyiv Churches
Music: "Lord, Have Mercy," Polyphonic Orthodox Hymns, St. Cyril and Methodius Ukrainian Church Choir (distortions are in original recording, but it is still beautiful)
Additional Information:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/History_of_Christianity_in_Ukraine
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