August 2010
The Olesko Castle stands on a high hill about 75 km from Lviv. It was built in the 13th century; became a stronghold of the Rus dynasty in the 14th century; but was remodeled in Italian Renaissance style and became a local residence from the 15th-18th centuries. King Jan Sobieski III was born here in 1629. While the building itself has an old castle feel and has some well-preserved frescoes on the walls, it is most remarkable for its art collection. In the 1960s, it was designated as an extension of the art museum of Lviv and has a fascinating collection of art and furnishings from the 10th-19th century. 
I especially enjoyed Renaissance paintings and sculptures of women holding books, obviously pleased to display their learning, and an old sailing map of the Mediterranean world that had been engraven on a massive desk. There was the colossal painting by M. Altomonte of The Battle of Vienna where the Turks were defeated in 1683 with troops commanded by King Jan Sobieski III and the Habsburgs. Until this journey, I had not grasped how significant that event was in the history and development of Europe. The museum also housed religious art as well as some very distinctive portraits, including King Sobieski's Queen Maria Casimira Louise de la Orange d'Arquien (Marysenka), a beautiful and powerful woman. The love letters exchanged between the King and Queen are reported to not only demonstrate their affection, but also to give insights into their times. As Maria outlived two husbands, I understand that her interesting (and perhaps controversial) story extends beyond her time as queen.
I was saddened by the disrepair of the Pidhirtsi Castle. It must have been amazingly beautiful when built in the 17th century. Its facade and the Italian designed gardens cascading down the hill reminded me of some of the later French chateaux. It was once the property of noble families and was considered the most beautiful palace in Poland. It entertained rulers from King Sobieski III to Emperor Franz Josef (see Habsburgs). Despite promises to restore the castle when it was sold in 1864, it was only superficially repaired in 1930 and then continued to deteriorate when it was used after WWII by the Soviets as a Tuberculosis sanatorium. In 1956, it caught fire and burned for 3 weeks. Despite all the damage, the exterior retains its touch of majesty, and it is easy to envision elegant lords and ladies descending the staircases into fragrant gardens, accompanied by stately music. Perhaps if there were more visitors to this hauntingly beautiful site, Lviv would have more money to continue its slow restoration. It is a structure worth saving.
My tour ended at Zolochiv Castle that had been built in the 1630s by the father of King Jan Sobieski III. At first, I thought the site looked more medieval with its well defended steep ramparts and drawbridge, but the palace itself was in a late Holland Renaissance Grand Palace design. As popular fashion changed, a "Chinese" Palace was added as a gift from King Jan Sobieski III to his wife, Marysenka, with a lovely stream and gardens. As with most of these disputed areas, the castle also served as a hospital, barracks, and prison, and a marker reminds one of the slaughter of Ukrainians here at the hand of the Bolsheviks in 1941. There are also tales of brave men and women in these communities who gave their lives in resistance to Nazi conquest. At Zolochiv, there was also a stone written in a still un-deciphered language or code to puzzle over. I was grateful to have taken a day to not only enjoy the beautiful landscape, but to gain greater understanding of its story.
Click below for slideshow:
Polish Castles Near Lviv
Additional Information:
http://www.inlviv.info/services/castles_tour/
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