Oxbow Lakes and Blue-Headed Parrots in the Peruvian Rainforest: Manu National Park

Having successfully "walked the plank" on our arrival at the Erika Lodge on the Madre de Dios River (see sidebar for Manu Rafting and Riverboats), we left our packs in our cabin rooms, put on our loaned jungle boots, and headed out for our first expedition.  As the three of us had added our excursion to the jungle after our core trip was planned, we were only able to fit in a 3-day journey.  Not having really understood how much time it would take to travel to Erika Lodge and back, I would now recommend the usual 4-day trip.  As it was, we had to miss another  hike in the rainforest  and to choose whether to go on the  zip line through the tree canopy or go see wildlife on an oxbow lake.  The four-day itinerary includes all those activities.

While one companion chose to go on the zip line (and found it thrilling after a strenuous hike), Teddie and I chose the more sedate rafting on an oxbow lake.  Oxbow lakes are formed the same way as Louisiana bayous and Australian billabongs.  On curving lowland rivers, silt begins to build up where it loops and eventually that loop is cut off from the main river and becomes a  narrow lake.   They tend to be shallow and marshy and are a great place to find birds, reptiles, and small mammals.  We waded out to our river boat at Erika and headed downstream until we reached an opening in the thick jungle vegetation.

Fortunately, there was a path cut through for us, though I did try to imagine what early explorers must have dealt with as they first tried to find their way through the jungle.  Most plants were 2-3x the size of a man, often thick enough to block the sun.  We walked on dry stalks and through slippery, sticky mud, as we passed trees with unusual roots, delicate flowers, hanging banana bunches, and tangled vines.  A group that came after ours saw spider monkeys.  We heard unusual bird and insect calls and stayed away from the large battle ants.  After crossing a rickety bridge over a marsh, we came to the small oxbow lake with mirrored reflections of blue sky and lush vegetation.

For this excursion, we had joined a rather loud and fun-loving group of Germans, but once they had pulled away in their rafts, the setting was very peaceful and still, with only the sounds of nature to be heard.   Our balsa wood rafts were quite different from the modern rubber ones we used on the river.  About six long balsa logs were nailed together with short cross logs, then a shorter long log,  and ending with other cross logs which were the  "seats."  As seen in the photo, the navigator stood on the longest logs which were covered with water and steered using a pole.  The inside of the raft was nearly as full of water as the outside, so I was glad I had my waterproof jungle boots.  Unfortunately, Teddie needed a special support in her shoes and couldn't use the boots, so she had to sit with wet shoes.

As there were a number of people on the lake that afternoon, we got the last raft, which was in need of repair.  Nefi, one of our great guides, was our navigator.  I was on the back seat whose nails had come out, so I was constantly trying to steady myself on the wobbly log while taking photos of moving wildlife.  As I leaned back for one great shot, my "seat" rolled out from under me and off the rotted log.   I ended up flat on my back in the mucky water where Nefi stood.  The startled bird flew away, and I was wet, but not hurt!


I realize these wildlife photos will not win me a prize or position at National Geographic.  I will
blame the lack of clear focus on my wobbly seat, the birds and animals who insisted on moving, and the oncoming dusk.  Nevertheless, I hope you can envision the wonder and beauty of this place.  We almost immediately saw a capybara on shore--the world's largest rodents.  They are giant cousins to the guinea pig and can grow to 3-4 feet long (107-134 cm) and weigh 77-150 lb. (77-105 kg). Ours was around 2 feet.  They are gentle, semi-aquatic herbivores and are native to much of South America, but are starting to show up other places where they have been purchased as pets and then abandoned.

Prominent in this oxbow lake was a tree covered by the hanging basket nests of the yellow-rumped cacique (most birds are in the slideshow).  These black-headed birds with their yellow backs were constantly and quickly slipping into their nests, then flying away, then returning.  We also saw the social flycatcher with yellow on the breast.  And focusing on yellow:  a fasciated tiger heron with its brown-black back and yellow stripes on its face was looking for dinner.  We also saw the beautiful purple gallinule and a wattled jaucana, wading in the marsh looking for food.  It almost became dinner for what appeared to be some kind of large water snake or small caiman that moved quickly, but never showed itself above water.

We saw several small red, white, and blue red-capped cardinals and listened to the calls of the russet-backed oropendola.  But the most unusual bird was the hoatzin. With their crests and blue faces, they reminded me of creatures from Dr. Seuss.  It was dusk when we finished, so we had to go back through the jungle by flashlight to reach our boat.  That evening we were greeted at the cabins by a nearly 3" (using a kleenex measuring tool) beautiful metallic-colored beetle.What an amazing place!

The next morning we were off on our boat before dawn.  The mists rose as dawn approached, shrouding the trees and mountains in mystery.  At times, we could not even see what was ahead.  As the sky lightened, we disembarked at a palm covered station where we could watch parrots arrive at the clay licks.  To keep from disturbing these endangered parrots, we had to watch them from across the river using binoculars and telescopes.  We saw their silhouettes in the sky above, flying to the licks.  From what I've read, parrots go to the clay licks for needed minerals and sodium which also reduces the toxicity from the seeds of fruits they eat (see bottom link).  But they seemed to be flying back and forth from the trees rather than settling in for a sustained meal that day.

It was far away for my zoom lens, but I did get some fuzzy images of the endangered blue-headed parrots (with green bodies).  On a photo I took through the telescope (in the slideshow), you might see some green spots feeding on the clay lick.  It's the best I could do.  After a pancake breakfast and surrendering my friendly boots, the three of us joined the German group for the long ride back to Cuzco while  the rest of our group headed off to the zip-line.  I would have liked more time in the jungle, but was glad to be returning to hot showers.

Click below for slideshow:
Rainforest Adventures

Music:  Tito la Rosa, Espiritu del Aqua, Lo Mejor de Tito la Rosa: Meditacion
Further Information:
http://www.manuadventures.com/photo_gallery/erika/gallery_ourlodge_erika.html
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Oxbow_lake
http://vtpb-www2.cvm.tamu.edu/brightsmith/Real%20dirt%20on%20clay%20licks.htm