Machu Picchu: 100 Years

August 2011

In July 1911, Hiram Bingham, an American explorer/ Yale college professor/ archaeologist/ opportunist, "discovered" Machu Picchu, having been led by indigenous people to Inca ruins in the Andes in his quest to find Old Vilcabamba, the last stronghold of the Incas against the Spaniards.  Bingham acknowledged that his discovery of Machu Picchu was like Columbus' discovery of the New World --there had been prior visitors-- but he,  through associations with the relatively new National Geographic Society, brought this mysterious city of ruins in the tops of the Andes to the attention of the world and put Machu Picchu on the "bucket list" of innumerable travelers.  Adventure heros,  such as Indiana Jones, have been modeled after him.

However, Bingham's legacy was tarnished through the century-long dispute (hopefully, finally resolved last January) between Yale and Peru around his removal of artifacts for the Peabody Museum (mostly burial remains and pottery--Inca gold had already been taken by the Spaniards).  While explorers before him had filled European museums full of Egyptian and Greek treasures, Bingham's discoveries helped awaken Peru's pride in its glorious past and their determination to keep what was theirs. Bingham left Peru after only 4 years.

However,  he was later invited to return to Peru for the dedication of  the twisting Hiram Bingham Highway connecting Aquas Calientes to the ruins and for the 50th anniversary of his discovery, commemorated by a bronze plaque on the site.  His memory has been in and out of favor in Peru, so I'm sure he would be pleased to know that the centennial of his discovery was celebrated this year. ( I just finished a fascinating biography by Christopher Heaney, The Story of Hiram Bingham, a Real-Life Indiana Jones,  and the Search for Machu Picchu.)

While other Peruvians and explorers may have visited or farmed near Machu Picchu in the past, they did not know much about or value the jungle-covered ruins until Hiram Bingham and his group uncovered it.  In fact, when he returned after a couple of years, the jungle had grown back over the ruins he had cleared.  With limited background information, Bingham claimed that Machu Picchu was both the beginning and final city of the Incas, but both these conclusions have now been proven wrong.  (He did also "discover" those ruins, but didn't recognize what they were).  So what is Machu Picchu all about?  As the Incas left no written records, no one really knows its story.

While there is evidence of earlier ruins nearby, it appears that the Incas developed this place about 1438 during the expansion of the Inca empire under the great Inca Pachacutec.  As additional excavations of the site and nearby ruins have proceeded, scholars believe Machu Picchu had a relatively small population and may have served important ceremonial, religious, and agricultural functions.  

Although there appeared to have been a palace, observatories, and temples, it never seemed to be anyone's capital, and there is no evidence its buildings were covered in gold and jewels as in Cusco.  Most notable is the rounded Temple of the Sun which has the most perfect stones in Machu Picchu.   Through its window,  the summer equinox sun appears along the straight edge of the massive center stone.  Lower in the city stands the Temple of the Condor with the Intimachay cave--a solar observatory for the winter solstice.  

Further up are the Temple of the Three Windows and the Principal Temple from which one can climb to the Intihuatana--the "Hitching Post of the Sun"--as Incas called this rising mound from which the Incas made astronomical observations and today's travelers observe the vast beauty of this site.  Its magnificence can also be enjoyed from the lone hut at the top of the stone "fountains"; after a rigorous climb to the Temple  of the Moon on Huayna Picchu  (New Peak); or the more gentle hour hike to Intipunku (Sun Gate).   While the origins and purposes of Machu Picchu are uncertain,  when and why this amazing city was abandoned is even more puzzling.  There is no evidence of conquest, warfare, or natural disaster.  Although its habitation extends into the early period of Spanish domination, it was not part of the flight of Incas from Cuzco.  For reasons unknown, the Inca population appeared to have just left  about a hundred years after creating this remarkable site.  Even the memory of its people and purpose seems to have evaporated into the morning mists.

So, like thousands of others, I came to Peru to ascend Machu Picchu and take the pictures of a lifetime (actually it is a descent of almost 2,000 feet from Cusco--but still over 8,000 feet above sea level).  But, as you may recall from my Cusco post, I got sick after the jungle and my camera stopped working, so I had to spend a day in bed and get a new camera quickly.  Still, I managed to get up the next morning, take a bunch of medications, and jump into the van to the train station with wet hair while carrying my shoes, a new camera that had not even come out of the box, and an overnight bag.   Once we figured out the correct train car, we found PeruRail clean, on time, and comfortable as we enjoyed wide window views of the nearby Veronica Glacier and the Urubamba River.  As we ascended from the river valley, we passed Inca ruins and hardy hikers who had chosen the more rigorous four-day trek on the Inca Trail.  My nephew-in-law and his teenage son enjoyed such a climb last March.

Our train excursion ended at the colorful town, Aquas Calientes, nestled in a mountain gorge where, after following a maze through souvenir stands, we caught the bus up the winding road to the ruins.  Jan and Dale had reservations to stay in the town.   The other three of us had decided on a major splurge to spend the night at the only hotel by the ruins--the five-star Sanctuary Lodge.

As we had made our reservations late, the only room available was still more expensive split three ways than I had ever spent on a room before.  But the hotel was all inclusive--we could order anything at the gourmet restaurant anytime.  Alas, all I wanted for lunch was a bowl of chicken soup (it was good) and ginger ale.  For dinner, it was a simple appetizer, and I didn't even make it to breakfast.  But if I couldn't enjoy the food to my heart's desire,  I certainly enjoyed the luxurious bed and down comforter, the full-spray shower, the soothing, scented candle that was brought for us when the beds were turned down, and the aromatic toiletries.

The next morning I did not make a sunrise walk to the Sun Gate with Jan or attempt the rigorous climb of Huayna Picchu with another of our party, but I did manage to meet our guide for a tour of the ruins.  It was a gorgeous  day in one of the most spectacular spaces on earth.  Just to stand there--breathe the air--gaze at the dramatic verdant mountain peaks and deep valleys--marvel at the stone city hanging on the cliff--I was content.

I was weak from barely eating for two days; I fumbled my way through learning the controls on a new camera;  my battery had not fully charged and quit before I did--leaving me without a photo of myself at Machu Picchu (friends supplied the photos of Aquas Calientes).  Yet, I will always carry an internal picture of myself there.  I did not do all I intended or get the most amazing photos ever--but my spirit was filled with wonder and beauty.  I had made my discovery of Machu Picchu.

We returned by bus to Aquas Calientes for a pizza snack (I was finally hungry) and a little souvenir shopping before our train returned to Cusco in the night.

Click below for slideshow:
Machu Picchu

Music:  Ennio Morricone, The Mission (theme),  The Mission
Further Information:  Christopher Heaney, The Story of Hiram Bingham, a Real-Life Indiana Jones,  and the Search for Machu Picchu, 2011
Insight Guides, Peru