August 2011
Finally--my Penguin Post! For those following my posts, I last wrote about Paracas at the Peruvian tip of the driest desert on earth along the southwestern coast of South America (see sidebar). This desolate landscape seems like an unlikely place to find bird islands, but right off the shore are the three incredible Islas Ballestas.
As they are part of the protected marine reserve, you can only get there by licensed tour boats and even then, no one is allowed to disembark. So all photos were taken long distance, either when the boat was speeding across the waters or bobbing up and down in choppy waters in competition with surrounding boats and about 30 fellow passengers all aiming for the perfect shot. Despite those limitations, I was thrilled by what I saw and hope my photos convey the marvel of this place often referred to as the Peruvian Galapagos.
We boarded our boat with the Italian friends we had made in our Manu adventure (see PE Manu on sidebar) at the harbor of Paracas for an 8 a.m. departure. We headed toward the peninsula where rocky alcoves and mineral-colored high cliffs provided perfect shelter and resting perches for large white pelicans, seagulls, terns, and red-headed turkey vultures. Rising above these is a 200 meter high bas relief, known as the Candelabrum, that was carved on a sandy rock mountain. No one knows why or when this figure (reminded me of a desert cactus) was created, but it has stood on the side of this mountain, visible only from the sea, for centuries. They say it is not related to the strange desert lines and designs of Nazca to its south, but it is still an enigmatic mystery.
From the peninsula, you just have to follow the line of flying birds, stretched out as far as you can see to the rocky islands. At first, the islands appear to be spotted, but soon it becomes apparent that they are almost entirely covered in mostly black-and-white birds. I have never seen anything like it.
The most common birds were the Peruvian Booby (photo), terns, and gulls. One of the most distinctive was the dark Inca Tern with its bright red bill and feet (left corner)
There were also numerous groups of Brandt's black Cormorants and the white -breasted Guanay Cormorants (photo) that slide their thin bodies gracefully into the sea. They say there are 70 bird species known in the area, including visiting albatross. With all those birds come a lot of bird droppings. Periodically, the government collects the guano (droppings) and sells it for fertilizer. Not a job I would want.
But, of course, the penguins were my favorite. The Peruvian or Humboldt Penguins are a relative to the African, Magellean, and Galapagos penguins and enjoy keeping cool in the cold Humboldt current that comes up the coast from Antarctica. They are medium-sized penguins (abt. 2 ft. tall and 10-12 lbs.) Even though they are now endangered (less than 12,000), they are popular at zoos. But I much preferred them in the wild. We were quite concerned when we saw a young penguin who appeared to be lost from the group, wandering alone on a separate path. I hope he found his way back to the safety of his home before being seized by large bird or a hungry fur seal.
However, it is not just birds who have taken to the islands. There are seals, sea lions, and fur seals from the Galapagos that love to lounge on the island rocks. Most appeared totally content to just lie in the sun and had the sweetest "smiles" on their faces.
Occasionally, one would rise up and start barking at the others to move off its space. Just as I was about to capture such a moment, a younger, smiling seal popped up right in the center of the photo, oblivious to the action around it---like a child wanting to get in the picture, too.
On our return, we saw a fin rising above the water. We were quickly reassured that we had entered dolphin, not shark territory. For the return, local fishermen feed the dolphins to be a welcoming surprise. What a remarkable place on our amazing earth! Enjoy more views in the slideshow.
Click link below for slideshow:
Islas Ballestas
Music: Tito la Rosa,
Lo Mejor de Tito La Rosa: Meditacion
Additional Information:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Humboldt_Penguin
Ber VanPerlo,
Birds of Mexico and Central America
From the peninsula, you just have to follow the line of flying birds, stretched out as far as you can see to the rocky islands. At first, the islands appear to be spotted, but soon it becomes apparent that they are almost entirely covered in mostly black-and-white birds. I have never seen anything like it.
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