Salisbury, UK

June 2009

As mentioned in earlier posts, I decided to feel younger this year by comparing myself to people and places that were older than I am.  Well, William Longespee, the Earl of Salisbury, is old.  He was one of the illegitimate children of Henry II;  a half brother to Richard the Lionheart and the infamous King John (of Robin Hood times); and, most important to me, one of my ancestors through the Fowke line.  William was present at John's signing of the Magna Carta (1215), at the laying of the foundation of Salisbury Cathedral (1220), and, being the first one buried in the cathedral,  was there to greet me (in his sarcophagus) when I arrived.  The cathedral and its chapter house have lots of superlatives--the tallest church spire in England (404 feet),  the oldest working mechanical clock in the world (1386), Britain's earliest complete choir stalls--remarkably carved (1236), and the finest of the four surviving original Magna Cartas.

Intricately carved images of fellow knights with hunting dogs at their feet and swords by their sides, tattered regimental flags of soldiers of later eras, and letters signed by Queen Elizabeth I handling routine affairs of the kingdom became my time machine as I imagined those who had filled the cathedral with prayer and song for almost eight hundred years.

Unfortunately, as conflict engulfed the nation, Protestant leaders were burned at the stake here.  But it was also at Salisbury that time finally  advanced, being the official place where the change was made from the Julian to the Gregorian Calendar  for England in 1752.  Today it is a delightful town with hanging flower baskets, corner pubs and interesting little shops to poke into.
Anti-aging advice:  Love your past!

Click on link for slideshow:
Salisbury
Music: Purcell, Fairest Isle, Spirit of England--Land of Hope and Glory
More Information:  www.visitwiltshire.co.uk/salisbury/home

Bath, UK

In pursuing my fountain of youth, I'd have to say that Roman stuff makes me feel young.   The Romans invaded Britain in 43 AD, and by 60 AD, they had discovered the only hot thermal springs in the UK.   They dedicated a temple to Minerva and managed to merge worship with a nice day at the spa.  Even in Roman days, people from as far away as Europe would come "to take the waters."  I've seen lots of Roman bath sites in Europe and the Middle East, but never anything as intact and amazing. It well deserves its recognition as a World Heritage City. 

But the Romans were not the first at the springs.  In the 9th Century BC, Prince Bladud got leprosy, was banished from court, and became a swineherd.   When he noticed his pigs coming out of the muddy springs with beautiful skin, he decided to dive in.  His leprosy was healed and he returned as king.  (love that story) You can get a taste of the spring waters in the elegant Pump House, but instead I sought my cure in the Minerva Chocolate shop.   

Christianity came during the time of the Romans, and it became an important Saxon religious site.  Edgar, the first king of all England, was crowned in the Abbey in 973.  The baths were forgotten and covered (how could you forget to take a bath?)  until their re-discovery in the 17th-18th Century.  The town boomed in Georgian style designed by John Wood, father and son, and once again became a favorite place for taking curative waters and for settings for Jane Austen novels.  Jane lived here 5 years, but many of the souvenirs in her museum bear the likeness of Colin Firth.  And should you wander up to the Royal Crescent (1st such architecture in world) you would pass by row houses owned by Johnny Depp and other celebrities seeking a privacy cure.


Anti-aging advice:  Just keep reinventing yourself!
Clink on link for slide show:
Bath
Music: Enya, Sumiregusa, Amarantine
Additional Information:  visitbath.co.uk/

Stonehenge, UK

Naturally, my search for things older than I led me to mysterious Stonehenge. I had a day to spend in the environs of London before going North, so booked a one-day tour of Salisbury, Stonehenge, and Bath when I purchased my BritRail pass before leaving the US. It was more than should be squeezed into one day, but I only had one day to squeeze them into. The tour picked me up at my hotel (still adjusting to jet lag) and provided a comfortable and engaging glimpse into the history.

Coming from cities of skyscrapers and urban sprawl, I was surprised and pleased when we "stumbled" upon Stonehenge, still in the middle of nowhere--with no cheap souvenir stands or billboards on its path. The site was smaller and the stones not as tall as I had imagined ( as the temples of Egypt), but they were no less impressive. Stones of over 40 tons, placed with such astronomical accuracy 3,000-4,000 years ago. Earthen banks and trenches indicated it was a ceremonial site 1,000 years before that. Without reminders, visitors assumed a reverential tone as they walked about, imaging ancient rites and hoping to hear secrets on the breeze.

There remains much speculation about the origin of Stonehenge--from medieval tales to science fiction. Often it is associated with the Druids. While Druids may have worshiped here at some time, Stonehenge was constructed by much earlier peoples. Until earth reveals her history, how and why they did so remains one of the great mysteries.

Anti-Aging tip:  Stay aligned with your stars
Click on link for slide show:
Stonehenge
Music:
More information: www.stonehenge.co.uk/

Kensington District, London, UK

June 24, 2009

I decided I wanted to celebrate my significant birthday this year with an adventure in a place where most things were older than I.  So I jumped (flew) "across the pond" to the United Kingdom to visit my nephew Dave and his family and a good friend Julia, whom I had not seen since our college years in France.  I stayed at the Kensington Hilton where I got a good deal using my points and enjoyed their hospitality and food (big breakfast buffet and a tasty salmon dinner).   I never made it downtown for the big city sights (I've been there before), but enjoyed the residential, garden atmosphere of Kensington and the upbeat sense of neighboring Notting Hill.

I arrived late at night and was delivered from Paddington Station by one of those roomy black taxis.  So I got a little turned around the next day  returning to my hotel by foot, not being able to figure out my new iphone GPS.  Fortunately, I stopped in a friendly Caffe Nero.  They are mostly known for their coffee, but I  discovered decadent chocolate brownies, tasty sandwiches as well as good directions back to my hotel.  Nero's fiddling in Rome wasn't great, but this food was.

With a few hours before mytrain ride to Harrogate, I had a lovely walk past the embassies to Kensington Palace.  They had an interesting display about dressing for presentation at court in the 19th to 20th centuries as well as a collection of Princess Diana's renowned dresses. Kensington was the birthplace and childhood home of Queen Victoria.  I was most interested, though, in the connection to King William and Queen Mary (for whom Williamsburg was named) and to see how my fellow Virginians had been influenced by their style.  Unfortunately, I didn't leave enough time to really explore the gardens or the Princess Diana memorial.

Click link for slide show:
Kensington
Music:  Handel, Water Music Suite in D--Hornpipe, Heritage of England--This Sceptred Isle
More information: www.hrp.org.uk/kensingtonPalace/
www.hilton.co.uk/kensington

BLOG UNDER RECONSTRUCTION

Welcome. My nephew Dan set up this great blog which has had little use in the past 1 1/2 years. I won't bother with the reasons/excuses. After struggles to find the most effective ways to share my travel adventures and photos, I have returned to this blog.

I hope to provide comments on where I have traveled with selected photos and then to attach slide shows and video clips for those who want to see more. The postings will include past and present travels, not necessarily in order, but tied together with an index to search by site and eventually an Eat and Sleep section with recommendations. Please come back and visit often and share your experiences.

Future entries:  Teaching in Mexico and China; Panama; Aruba;  Columbia; Alaska; New Orleans; Hungary; Czech Republic; UK; African Adventures; Everglades; Turkey; Greece and more

Journeys of the Heart

August 1, 2008

I have learned that journeys of the heart cannot be measured in days or miles.  I have just returned from nearly two months of traveling and teaching in Tanzania and Mexico this summer with volunteers for Concordia College’s Global Language Villages (GLV).  According to my itineraries, I traveled 3852 miles to Amsterdam; 4288 miles from Amsterdam to Tanzania; and 2114 miles to Mexico City, a total of over 20,500 miles roundtrip.  I brought back remarkable  images, sounds and feelings  that I cannot forget.  I hope I will never be the same.

Just before I left, my nephew Dan set up a blog for me. However, as  internet access was very limited and unreliable on these trips,  I reverted to a pencil/laptop diary.  It is from those entries that I will create my blog.

June 2008

It seemed as if I would have plenty of time to prepare and pack, but my list of things to do kept growing longer, time slipped through my hands, and I was beset with technological woes. It was not until 2 am on Monday morning June 9 that I finally tumbled into bed. After 4 hours of sleep, I headed off to work for half a day then to the airport for my overnight flight to Amsterdam where I met up with the other 11 members of our GLV teaching team.

It was to be another eight hour flight before we would land at Kilimanjaro International Airport (KIA).  We flew over Dutch windmills, cultivated fields of France, Italian snowcapped mountains, the blue Mediterranean, to the desert shores of Africa.   Then for several hours there were only the desolate and endless deserts of Egypt, Sudan, and Somalia, occasionally broken by an empty road or a spot of green beside a river that quickly disappeared into the sands.  Somewhere, over that unmarked territory,  the tensions and frets of the past weeks disappeared, their traces covered in desert dust.  It was dark when we arrived at Kilimanjaro,  nearly 24 hours after I left.  We were greeted at the Kia Lodge with the traditional fresh fruit juice (pineapple) and a cool washcloth.  I heard again the joyous Swahili  greetings of “karibu” (welcome) and “jambo” (hello).  In a strange way, I felt I had returned home.

Walk on the Wild Side

A quick blog post on a slow computer at the Ibaru Safari Lodge in Arusha, Tanzania. Some punctuation marks don't work, so hope you can understand this.

The trip over went smoothly and I am enjoying my new friends with whom I will be teaching. Yesterday, we went on a walking safari at the African Wildlife Federation West Kilimanjaro Elephant Research Center--walking among elephants, zebras, baboons, wildebeest, eland, giraffes and water bucks (with an armed guard). It was amazing. They regarded us with interest, but only as one more of the beasts that roam the plains. Because it is a private reserve, they give walking tours.  In the national parks, you can only get out of the vehicle at designated rest stops.

Today we walked in a local village and bargained for handmade knives and jewelry, shopped for Tanzanite (rare gem) in Arusha, and went to hear the UN tribunal that is being held here on war crimes from the Rwanda genocide. They had just gone into closed session, but we were able to talk for a while with the head of security about the challenges they had these past 10 years in balancing justice with the need to heal wounds and rebuild Rawanda.

I do love Africa. I will try to write more in a couple of days.[Editing done by Dan, see comments for the original email with original errors]

Return to Africa

I first came to Tanzania with friends last spring (April 2007) and fell in love—with the wild beasts, the brilliant sunsets, the kind hearted people. I knew I would return, but I had not expected it to be so soon. Now, the telling of my first journey shall have to wait.