Snow on Snow

Sometimes the wonders of the world come to you.  Sipping hot chocolate while watching my world transformed into white, I was reminded of the first verse of Christina Rosetti's Christmas carol:

In the bleak midwinter Frosty wind made moan,
Earth stood hard as iron, Water like a stone
Snow had fallen, snow on snow,
Snow on snow on snow, In the bleak midwinter...

Only this was not "long ago," but right now, and I was living through Washington D.C.'s snowiest winter on record.  It started out as the snowiest December on record, followed by an end-of -January weekend storm that canceled church for icy roads, followed by an overnight storm that closed schools for a day, followed the next week by two blizzards that shut down everything--the schools for an entire week and the federal government most of the week as inadequate snow removal equipment attempted to clear paths in over 3 feet of snow so that life could restart.

For some it was a difficult time with fallen trees and without power or heat.  My inconveniences were small--having to dig a path to the bird feeders (after the 2nd blizzard we had to feed them in the yard because the fence gate could not be opened) and shoveling out cars.  A very kind neighbor surprised us by shoveling our mound of steps!

So now as snow mountains are beginning to melt, filling potholes with muddy, salty puddles and I am struggling with rescheduling meetings and catching up at work, I find I miss those quiet moments of reflection when time stood still and we were held captive by the swirling snows.   Grab a cup of cocoa and enjoy my slideshow of snow transformations.
Click link for slide show: (hit black "box" above white print to start)
Snow on Snow

March 3, 2010 Postscript:  Signs of Spring

  

Whitby Abbey

June 2009

It was at a Bed and Breakfast in Whitby that Bram Stoker wrote his famous Dracula, so it is not surprising that Dracula ended up shipwrecked on the cliffs of Whitby during a storm and then, in the shape of a dog, climbed the 199 steps to St. Mary's Church and graveyard where he claimed his first English victim. (and I thought I'd have to wait till I got to Transylvania next summer to meet up with Dracula).   A.S. Byatt also brought the contemporary novel Possession to this site.  J.M.W. Turner and other painters of the Romantic era were likewise entranced by Whitby's mystic ruins above the misty sea coast.

The haunting ruins are those of a Benedictine Abbey that was founded by the Normans, shortly after the invasion of William the Conqueror, and rebuilt in Gothic style. While it became a wealthy and important monastery until being dissolved by Henry VIII, the site's real glory was from an earlier era. The Venerable Bede, England's first historian, wrote in 731 of the importance of the Anglo-Saxon abbey in Whitby (Streanaeshalch) in the conversion of England to Christianity.

The history of the abbey began in 657 when King Oswy of Northumbria designated Lady Hild as the abbess to lead a mixed monastery of men and women. Hild and the subsequent women who ably led the abbey were of royal birth, and the importance of the monastery increased as it held sacred relics from King Oswy and the defeated King Edwin. The early English poet Caedmon served under Hild. The structures of this early abbey were unfortunately destroyed during Viking raids around 867. A German naval bombardment in WWI added to the disrepair of the current ruins. The site has an audio tour and interactive museum well worth the time. Alas, I did not leave enough time for shopping before the unique gift shop closed!
Click link below for slide show:
Whitby Abbey
Music: Annonymous 4, The Origin of Fire: Music and Visions of Hildegard von Bingen
Additional information:  www.whitbyabbey.co.uk

Whitby

June 2009

I stepped off the steam train into a delightful fishing town on the east coast of England (North Sea). Kari, and her family had come over in the spring to see Dave and highly recommended this place and its award-winning fish and chips. To quote the Lonely Planet Great Britain guide book: "When it comes to a bit of classy charm, Whitby blows all of northern England's coastal resorts out of the water." I agree.

I arrived around 1:30 pm and had a taxi deliver me over the river and up the cliff to a quaint bed and breakfast at the Boulmer Guest House (www.boulmerguesthouse.co.uk ) on the West Cliff. In the guidebooks, there seemed to be issues re: staying on the East v. West cliffs, but I found them easily connected and had no difficulty getting between the two. The Bensons at the Boulmer were gracious hosts, and it was easy to arrange things with them in advance. The room was pleasant and the location convenient, as it was only a few blocks to the cliffs and the stairs leading down into the town and to the bridge. They say it is quite busy in this town during its semi-annual Goth festival.

I headed first to Quayside, awarded the "Best Fish and Chips in Yorkshire" and wasn't disappointed in the delicate, crispy delights. Refreshed, I wandered past the inevitable beach arcades and across the bridge into the narrow, windy medieval streets to the Captain Cook Museum where James Cook lived during his seaman's apprenticeship. I was intrigued by the personal story of this famous seaman, the extent of his travels, and his passion for discovery and exploration (not exploitation) which was tragically cut short by his murder in the Sandwich (Hawaiian) Islands in 1779. He was the first man to cross both the Arctic and Antarctic circles.

My own exploration led me to the 199 steps to the abbey ruins (see other posting). Heading home later, I found myself persuaded to join the "last for the day" half-price boat excursion into the North Sea where we could see the town, the abbey ruins, and the cliffs where Dracula was purported to be shipwrecked. It was a pleasure to sit and enjoy a peaceful interlude with the lapping of the waves and the call of the gulls. I tried fish cakes for dinner, but found that the English make them with fish and mashed potatoes--the original fish and chips were more to my liking. I fell into bed early after another intense day, but was awakened several times at night by the squawking gulls who never seemed to sleep.
Click link below for slideshow:
Whitby
Music: Wood, Fantasia on British Sea Songs--Jack's the Lad, Spirit of England--Land of Hope and Glory

More information:   www.whitby.co.uk/

North Yorkshire Moors Railway

June 2009

When I thought of a visit to the Yorkshire Moors, I envisioned Heathcliff (Wuthering Heights) and Sherlock Holmes (Hounds of the Baskervilles) in the dark and dreary moors, haunted by fierce winds and shadows.  Still, I was intrigued by the opportunity to take the privately-run vintage North Yorkshire Moors Railway from Pickering to the coastal town of Whitby.  While this used to be a popular railway route for steam engines connecting the coast to inland, it was dropped after the nationalization of the railways to save costs.  It has now been made into a historic rail line, popular with tourists, train enthusiasts, and anyone wanting a great ride through beautiful countryside.

I could only get to Pickering by bus from York and the hours of the NYM railway are limited, so I had to plan carefully to fit it into my itinerary.  The rail station was a walkable distance from the bus stop, though it was more challenging lugging my luggage.  Whereas many just do it as a day trip and enjoy getting off at the various stops to explore the quaint towns,  I planned an overnight stay at Whitby before heading north through Middleborough and Darlington to Newcastle-upon-Tyne.  For a couple of stops, I shared the car with autistic young adults and their chaperones out on an excursion.  They reminded me of some of the delightful challenged students that I have worked with.

What fun it was to enter the old station and wait with the station master for the steam engine to arrive!  Of course, there were plenty of Thomas the Tank Engine toys and model train sets to look over  until the train showed up.  As we chugged along, I was surprised by the varied green and lush landscapes of pine forests, twisted shrub-trees, hills of purple heather, and green meadows with sheep.   The old stations and trains have been a favorite for movies and t.v. series like Poirot and Sherlock Holmes, and the Goathland station was the original Hogsmeade in the Harry Potter movie, The Sorcerer's Stone.  Great adventure!
Click on link for slideshow:
North Yorkshire Moors Railway
Music: Parry, An English Suite: Frolic, Spirit of England
More information:  www.nymr.co.uk  

York Minster, York, UK

June 2009

The York Minster (cathedral) is such an amazing edifice, I decided it needed an entry of its own. It is the largest Gothic cathedral and retains half of the medieval church glass in England. In importance, it rivaled Canterbury until Canterbury was designated the home of the archbishop of ALL England. The Minster was begun in 1220 and finished in 1480, spanning the range of Gothic styles. Though periodically damaged by fires, it remains a magnificent sanctuary full of light and beauty.

As with most buildings in York, it was built on earlier foundations--a Roman garrison, a wooden church where King Edwin was baptized in 627, a Norman church constructed after William the Conqueror destroyed the town. The crypt and treasury are well worth a trip down the stairs (and free with the York pass) as you can see remnants of these earlier structures and their treasures. They also say there is a great view if you climb to the top of the tower, but I decided to forgo that experience.

 I was fortunate to be there on a beautiful, sunny day and was able to enjoy the rich colors of the numerous stained glass windows. However, many are being restored, as both lead and glass are only semi-hardened liquids that succumb to the pull of gravity over time. The magnificent East window (the size of a tennis court) was unfortunately under a cloth reproduction so that the workers could continue undisturbed. My favorite was the rose window created in 1500 with red and white roses, celebrating the marriage which took place of Henry VII to Elizabeth of York, uniting the houses of York and Lancaster and ending the tragic War of the Roses.

Click on link for slideshow:
York Minster

Music: Byrd, O Lord, make Elizabeth our Queen, Heritage of England--this Sceptred Isle

More information: www.yorkminster.org

York, North Yorkshire, UK

June 2009

As I wandered through the medieval town center of English York, I found hidden evidences of its earlier existence as Roman Erboracum, Anglo-Saxon Eoforwic, and Danish/Viking Jorvik. Indeed the Romans developed the site into a large settlement in which a Roman general named Constantine was proclaimed the Roman Emperor in 306 AD.  By 625 the Anglo-Saxons had the city, converted to Christianity, and made their city a major center of learning which ended up attracting not only students from all over Europe, but eventually Vikings who invaded in 866.  But the Vikings took a liking to the place and developed a peaceful trading port rather than continuing their usual pillaging.  The Anglo-Saxons finally regained control, only to lose it to William the Conqueror  in 1066 who torched their city and rebuilt his own.

So how does one move through almost 2,000 years of history in a day trip from Harrogate?  First, I got a York Day Pass (there are also 2 or 3 day ones) available at the train station or tourist offices which got me into most sites quickly and free.  I had thought about taking one of the free tours offered in the town, but missed the time and place, so did my usual get-lost walk around--discovering and missing the city's remarkable sights.

I managed to fit into my intense day:  the famed gothic York Minster; the medieval Shambles area with houses dating from 1316 and little shops with sandwiches and chocolate sweets; Clifford's Tower (remains of the old castle stronghold); Barley's Hall (which displayed life in the late Middle Ages with a nearby charming Alley Cats shop; Jorvik's 'time-car' ride back to a reconstruction of the Viking town whose remnants were discovered there in 1972; the  Fairfax House (how could someone from Fairfax County miss that?) with its refined Georgian decor and a fascinating exhibition about banqueting in that era;  Whip-Ma-Whop-Ma-Gate (the shortest street in York with the longest name); the tranquil ruins of St. Mary's;  Monk's Bar (gate) with the Richard III Museum; the remarkably intact old city walls; ice cream from a street vendor among the pavement tombstones in King's Square; and a stop at the department store to exchange money.  So how did I miss the milkshake shop in the Shambles that my sister discovered on a subsequent trip?


I had heard much of York and found it as charming and fascinating as described.  At the Richard III Museum, I listened carefully to all the arguments in the mock trial of the Yorkish king, trying not to be persuaded by the Shakespeare plays I had seen, before I cast my verdict as to his guilt in the murder of the princes in the tower.  In the end, I found him guilty as it seemed like what kings did in those days.  I left myself a few minutes to wander into the enormous and intriguing National Railway Museum near the train station before heading back to dinner with Dave and his family at the Chinese restaurant that now occupies the Royal Baths in Harrogate.  I may never know what is to be found in the nightly ghost tours of this town still haunted by its past.
Click on link for slideshow:
York
Music: Playford, Divisions on Greensleeves, Heritage of England--This Sceptred Isle
More information: http://www.visityork.org/

Fountains Abbey, North Yorkshire, UK

June 2009

On a beautiful Sunday afternoon, Dave's family introduced me to one of their favorite diversions not far from Harrogate.    Hauntingly beautiful and serene, the ruins of Fountains Abbey are nestled in a quiet valley.  After disputes and a riot in York, 13 monks left the Benedictine monastery in 1132 and came to this untamed area to set up a stricter order, following the French Cistercians.

The "white monks" wore scratchy, undyed wool, had long periods of silent meditation, and ate food only for sustenance--hardly the group you would expect to ultimately control the largest, wealthiest, and most famous monastery in Northern England.  But the lay brothers who took care of their million acres, flocks of sheep, and other monastic industries made it prosper.

Surviving financial upheavals and the black plague, the abbey finally succumbed to Henry VIII's Dissolution of the Monasteries in 1536, and the lands were put into private hands.  Exquisite water gardens, a stately house, and a deer park were later added to the upstream Studley Royal Estate.

I was captivated by the shapes and forms, light and shadows of the ruins.  One could easily imagine the lay brothers going busily about their work in the still preserved cellarium while the silent monks looked up to God in their lofty sanctuaries.  I wandered so long among the ruins that I did not have time to finish my walk through the Studley Water Gardens before closing time and dusk, when the protected species of bats leave their nooks in the cellarium for their nightly feast.
Click on link for slideshow:
Fountains Abbey
Music:  Annonymous 4, The Origin of Fire: Music and Visions of Hildegard von Bingen
For more information:  www.fountainsabbey.org.uk

Independence Day

June 27, 2009

So when is the Fourth of July not the fourth of July? Dave and Michelle are in England as civilian employees of the U.S. military, and so I was invited to join them on base for a U.S. Independence Day celebration on June 27. For some reason, the Brits don't really celebrate our independence, although Dave said one of the Brits viewed it as a day when they got rid of us troublesome Americans.

Nonetheless, the Yorkshire Regiment was there to help the Americans put on a fun day of kid activities, including "catch and release" fishing, rides, obstacle courses, homemade derby races, and for lunch--the ever popular hamburgers, hotdogs, lemonade, and funnel cakes. We didn't stay round for the evening bash. It's nice to be on the same side with the Brits these days.

Click on link to get slide show:
Independence Day
Music: Sousa, Stars and Stripes Forever, Keith Brion and his New Sousa Band

Harrogate, North Yorkshire, UK

Feeling youthful and refreshed after seeing old things, I caught the train at Kings Cross (forgot to look for the sign for Hogwarts Platform 9 3/4 which was really filmed at Platform 4) and headed to Harrogate in North Yorkshire. Traveling by myself with luggage, I had treated myself to a first class Brit Rail pass for 2 weeks. The discounted pass is only available for purchase outside the UK by foreigners and is well worth the savings in time, money, and hassle. It allowed me to take as many trains as I wanted within 2 weeks (with transfers I averaged more than 1 a day) without advanced reservations and to sit in any unreserved 1st class seat.

They have passes for different amounts of time and sequential v. cumulative days.  It was a great way to get around, supplemented by occasional public buses. The 2 p.m. train to York was especially elegant with a wooden paneled passenger car with tables, free shortbread, and Harrogate water. The short transfer to Harrogate stopped at all the little towns, returning school children, business folk, workers and university students to their homes--interesting, but not so elegant.  It is easy to check out train schedules on the internet. http://www.nationalrail.co.uk/

I was greeted by my nephew Dave, who took me to the swimming lessons for Enoch (3) and Hilde (5) before having dinner at their favorite noodle restaurant, Wagamama, where they serve tasty new age noodle dishes with Asian influences. England has a good variety of international eating places (though not Mexican) that are popular. Then it was home for a decadent chocolate fudge cake made by Michelle and the kids. They are living in a turn-of-the (last) century four-story, stone row house with a giant bathtub, a maid's button to announce dinner, and an updated kitchen where Dave and Michelle produced some great food. I very much enjoyed the next three days of seeing life in an English town through their enthusiastic eyes.

Harrogate is a delightful English spa town nestled between its two big sisters, Leeds and York. Its sulfur spring baths were very popular in the Victorian era, and its springs still produce still (regular) and mineral (bubbly) bottled water that is distributed throughout England. The town is filled with grand old hotels, smart new eateries, and some of the most beautiful public gardens in England (according to guide books) which lure its new industry--conferences. It was here that Agatha Christie fled incognito after her failed marriage, making it a current mystery writer's delight. I wandered through the town one afternoon, enjoying its charm while I did my inevitable getting lost and unlost until I found my way back to Dave's house after a short refreshment stop at Bette's famous cafe and bakery. That night we enjoyed rich, spicy Indian food.

Dave and Michelle's "inn" in Harrogate was a perfect location for exploring abbey ruins, York, Leeds, and local castles (like the famed Castle Howard) --again far more than I had time to do. But my greatest delight was sharing the English experience with their very fun family.

Click link for slideshow:

Harrogate

Music: Parry, An English Suite: Pastorale, Spirit of England

More information: www.harrogate.gov.uk/harrogate-266