York, North Yorkshire, UK

June 2009

As I wandered through the medieval town center of English York, I found hidden evidences of its earlier existence as Roman Erboracum, Anglo-Saxon Eoforwic, and Danish/Viking Jorvik. Indeed the Romans developed the site into a large settlement in which a Roman general named Constantine was proclaimed the Roman Emperor in 306 AD.  By 625 the Anglo-Saxons had the city, converted to Christianity, and made their city a major center of learning which ended up attracting not only students from all over Europe, but eventually Vikings who invaded in 866.  But the Vikings took a liking to the place and developed a peaceful trading port rather than continuing their usual pillaging.  The Anglo-Saxons finally regained control, only to lose it to William the Conqueror  in 1066 who torched their city and rebuilt his own.

So how does one move through almost 2,000 years of history in a day trip from Harrogate?  First, I got a York Day Pass (there are also 2 or 3 day ones) available at the train station or tourist offices which got me into most sites quickly and free.  I had thought about taking one of the free tours offered in the town, but missed the time and place, so did my usual get-lost walk around--discovering and missing the city's remarkable sights.

I managed to fit into my intense day:  the famed gothic York Minster; the medieval Shambles area with houses dating from 1316 and little shops with sandwiches and chocolate sweets; Clifford's Tower (remains of the old castle stronghold); Barley's Hall (which displayed life in the late Middle Ages with a nearby charming Alley Cats shop; Jorvik's 'time-car' ride back to a reconstruction of the Viking town whose remnants were discovered there in 1972; the  Fairfax House (how could someone from Fairfax County miss that?) with its refined Georgian decor and a fascinating exhibition about banqueting in that era;  Whip-Ma-Whop-Ma-Gate (the shortest street in York with the longest name); the tranquil ruins of St. Mary's;  Monk's Bar (gate) with the Richard III Museum; the remarkably intact old city walls; ice cream from a street vendor among the pavement tombstones in King's Square; and a stop at the department store to exchange money.  So how did I miss the milkshake shop in the Shambles that my sister discovered on a subsequent trip?


I had heard much of York and found it as charming and fascinating as described.  At the Richard III Museum, I listened carefully to all the arguments in the mock trial of the Yorkish king, trying not to be persuaded by the Shakespeare plays I had seen, before I cast my verdict as to his guilt in the murder of the princes in the tower.  In the end, I found him guilty as it seemed like what kings did in those days.  I left myself a few minutes to wander into the enormous and intriguing National Railway Museum near the train station before heading back to dinner with Dave and his family at the Chinese restaurant that now occupies the Royal Baths in Harrogate.  I may never know what is to be found in the nightly ghost tours of this town still haunted by its past.
Click on link for slideshow:
York
Music: Playford, Divisions on Greensleeves, Heritage of England--This Sceptred Isle
More information: http://www.visityork.org/