Whitby

June 2009

I stepped off the steam train into a delightful fishing town on the east coast of England (North Sea). Kari, and her family had come over in the spring to see Dave and highly recommended this place and its award-winning fish and chips. To quote the Lonely Planet Great Britain guide book: "When it comes to a bit of classy charm, Whitby blows all of northern England's coastal resorts out of the water." I agree.

I arrived around 1:30 pm and had a taxi deliver me over the river and up the cliff to a quaint bed and breakfast at the Boulmer Guest House (www.boulmerguesthouse.co.uk ) on the West Cliff. In the guidebooks, there seemed to be issues re: staying on the East v. West cliffs, but I found them easily connected and had no difficulty getting between the two. The Bensons at the Boulmer were gracious hosts, and it was easy to arrange things with them in advance. The room was pleasant and the location convenient, as it was only a few blocks to the cliffs and the stairs leading down into the town and to the bridge. They say it is quite busy in this town during its semi-annual Goth festival.

I headed first to Quayside, awarded the "Best Fish and Chips in Yorkshire" and wasn't disappointed in the delicate, crispy delights. Refreshed, I wandered past the inevitable beach arcades and across the bridge into the narrow, windy medieval streets to the Captain Cook Museum where James Cook lived during his seaman's apprenticeship. I was intrigued by the personal story of this famous seaman, the extent of his travels, and his passion for discovery and exploration (not exploitation) which was tragically cut short by his murder in the Sandwich (Hawaiian) Islands in 1779. He was the first man to cross both the Arctic and Antarctic circles.

My own exploration led me to the 199 steps to the abbey ruins (see other posting). Heading home later, I found myself persuaded to join the "last for the day" half-price boat excursion into the North Sea where we could see the town, the abbey ruins, and the cliffs where Dracula was purported to be shipwrecked. It was a pleasure to sit and enjoy a peaceful interlude with the lapping of the waves and the call of the gulls. I tried fish cakes for dinner, but found that the English make them with fish and mashed potatoes--the original fish and chips were more to my liking. I fell into bed early after another intense day, but was awakened several times at night by the squawking gulls who never seemed to sleep.
Click link below for slideshow:
Whitby
Music: Wood, Fantasia on British Sea Songs--Jack's the Lad, Spirit of England--Land of Hope and Glory

More information:   www.whitby.co.uk/