The Breathless Beauty of Isla Taquile, Peru

August 2011

The rocky island of Taquile (not to be confused with the Mexican drink tequila) on Lake Titicaca took my breath away-- literally and figuratively.  Arriving mid-morning after our overnight on Isla Amantani, we docked on the shore at the start of a switchback trail that rose steeply to the top of the island.  Teddie and Dale decided not to attempt the climb up and then the descent down the rocky steps.  They stayed on the boat, as it was to pick us up at the other side of the island in a couple of hours.  We were told there was a cantina with snacks and a waiting area where we would meet. So, once we committed to the climb, there was no way back except to cross the island.  It's a small island (6 km long and 1km wide), but the challenge is in the vertical climb.

Living at sea level, I had chosen to  take my altitude sickness pills (Diamox) and had been staying at high altitudes for over a week, but I quickly found myself huffing and puffing as I started the path to the top of Taquile.  I frequently had to stop for deep breaths and used my raised arm "flapping" exercise to deepen my breaths  and  regain a good breathing pace.  I fell behind the rest of the group and appreciated it when my friends waited and took my slower pace as I moved up the mountain.  However, that did give us the chance to stop to enjoy the magnificent sights of the crystal blue sea and the terraced island.

A characteristic of the island was the arches we saw with three terra cotta heads of men in their broad-brimmed hats.  I never found out its meaning. We were told the rest of the group would meet us at the arch, as they were doing a side trip.  We stayed a few minutes at the first arch, and Jan talked in Spanish with the young girl sitting alone on the hillside, spinning wool and selling family-made knit items to tourists who might come along.  I bought a couple of animal finger puppets that she had made.  The girl spoke Spanish, although the native language of the island is still Quechua.


Realizing this was probably not our meeting place, we started the hike again to the top.  Many of the houses we passed had solar panels to generate some electricity.  We were met on the path (obviously the major thoroughfare) by colorful locals herding horned cows and festive sheep.  Like Amantani, there were no paved roads, cars, or other motorized vehicles.

It was at the third arch leading to the main plaza where we finally did find members of our group.  We had reached a height of 4,033 meters  or 13,231 ft. above sea level.  The square was quite empty around noon on this Sunday.  Somehow, it reminded me of the Bolivian scenes from the movie "Butch Cassidy and the Sundance Kid" even though none of that was filmed by a lake.  Perhaps my mind went there because I could see the misty blue mountains of Bolivia (where they were killed) across Lake Titicaca.  I half-expected some cowboy gun fight to spill out of one of the adobe buildings around the plaza, but it remained quiet, peaceful, and beautiful.

Like Isla Amantani, Taquile  doesn't have hotels, although arrangements can be made to stay with families.  Likewise, arrangements are made with families to provide lunches with typical foods to the groups that come.  We did find a "My House" restaurant near the plaza where we could use the "flush" toilets.  Flushing was accomplished by pouring a bucket of water you carried into the bathroom into the toilet once you were finished.  It worked.

We went with our boat group to our host's house where we sat outside at long tables with a great view.  Our guide then explained the symbolism of hats on the island.  I think the young, unmarried men wear a red  knit cap with a white tassel;  married men have a colored cap with a multi-colored tassel; and the more prominent men add a felt hat on top.  It certainly removes any ambiguity in relationships--although the island is so small, I would think everyone already knows. The rest of the group stayed for lunch, while the three of us started the descent to take some rolls and a little food we had purchased in the plaza to Dale and Teddie.

To get down the mountain on this side of the island, you have to walk down 530+ uneven, rocky steps to the dock below.  There is no railing and rarely a wall or support.  I was ok breathing, so the other two went on ahead with the food.  However, I only walked down about 527+ steps, as I tripped on one, then fell forward down several.   I sat on a step to assess the damage for a few minutes.  My hands and knees were scraped and bruised, and I could tell one knee was bleeding.  Of more concern, I had twisted an ankle.  Fortunately, I had worn short hiking boots or the damage would have been worse, and I did not break my new camera!!!  However, I stared down at the remaining 200+ stairs and wondered if I would have to stay on this island forever.

With stinging hands, a bloodied knee, and a tender ankle, I very slowly and carefully hobbled down the rocky steps.  Whenever I reached a place where I didn't see how I could get down without putting too much weight on my sore ankle (and risk more injury), someone would be coming up or down who kindly offered to help me.  It seemed like I was on those steps forever.  The group that had stayed for lunch were coming down as I finally reached the shore.  Unfortunately,  the cantina at the bottom had been closed, and those of us who hadn't been to lunch had only a few remaining snacks to share.

I got my knee bandaged and kept my swollen ankle elevated as we again crossed the beautiful waters of Lake Titicaca to return to Puno, tired and hungry.   I wrapped my ankle and walked (my hunger was more intense than my pain) a few blocks from our hotel to the main Plaza de Armas.  It was dusk and turning cold, so we just admired the  1757 Cathedral San Carlos Borromeo  from a distance and hurried on to find a welcoming restaurant with brick oven pizza.  We heard a band coming towards the main square, so waited for it.  It appeared to be in support of veterans or in protest of something--we couldn't figure out the purpose of their march.  It went around the near-empty plaza  and left, but then came back down the street and did the same thing two more times during dinner.   I  chose a tasty chicken dinner,  but there was confusion as two of us ordered the same thing and only one dinner was delivered.  But my dinner was worth the extra wait, and I ended it with a cup of delicious, rich, hot chocolate--which, of course, makes any day turn out right.

It was another early morning departure to take us to the airport in the nearby industrial city of Juliaca.  I must admit I had not seen a worse traffic situation since Urumqi, China.  The drivers actually had to be pretty skilled, because there appeared to be no lanes or traffic regulation.  Vehicles simply moved to the nearest empty spot as they worked their way toward their destination.  See if you can figure out which lane we were in!  Amazingly, we made it to the airport and enjoyed our Peru Air flight past the snow-capped volcanoes and deep Colca Canyons with a landing in Arequipa on our way back to Lima.  I wish we had had time to visit Arequipa and search for the Andean condor over the canyons, but we had to return to Lima to start our journey to the Paracas Desert on the southern coast.

Click link below for slideshow:
Isla Taquile

Music:  Allpa, Wanakauri, Machu Pichu
Further Information:  The Essential Book:  Discovering Peru