Floating on the Floating Uros Islands of Lake Titicaca, Peru

August 2011

I came to the shores of Lake Titicaca with lots of questions: Why would anyone want to live on an island on the highest navigable lake in the world?  Do the floating islands ever sink or float away?  How do you cook and wash and keep warm on an island of reeds?  Can you grow crops?  What does the "ground" feel like? Does the lake freeze in winter? If this is the highest "navigable" lake, what is the truly highest lake in the world?  etc.   I didn't get all the answers, but will share what I learned.

We spent a chilly winter night (other side of the equator)  in Puno (3,827 meters or over 12,500 ft above sea level), the official capital of Peru's Altiplano Basin and unofficial folklore center, known for its handicrafts, dances, costumes, legends, and fiestas.  Particularly notable is their summer Fiesta of the Virgin of the Candelaria on February 2  which celebrates the reported appearance of the Virgin May to nearby miners.  There can be up to 5,000 musicians and dancers in colorful ethnic costumes.   Under the Spanish, Puno was one of the wealthiest cities on the continent due to its proximity to the very prosperous Laykakota silver mines.  There were volatile disputes during those mining days, and even as we were planning our trip, there were concerns about whether we could stay here due to heated political disputes.  However, those were resolved, and Puno was quiet and nearly deserted on our winter evening.

As we were scheduled to spend the next night on the island Amantani, we packed a small overnight bag and joined a group of about 12 others in the morning for our boating adventure.  As we drove to the docks, we passed a busy street market before entering the inevitable long row of tourist/souvenir shops.  Our motorized boat had comfortable seating, large windows, a viewing deck on top, and a very bright floral carpet on the ceiling of the cabin.

Our boat soon ventured onto the largest lake in South America (8,000+ sq. km or 3,100 sq miles) with an average depth of 107 meters (351 ft).  The lake is a shared border between Peru (60%) and Bolivia (40%), and it is possible to see the Bolivian coast from the taller islands.  While the lake is cold, it does not freeze, and some claim that a fresh-water version of the bull shark can be found in the depths of this lake that is fed by and was probably formed by glaciers (how did sharks get there??).

It was a gorgeous day on  Lake Titicaca--bright blue skies; fluffy white clouds; crystal turquoise-blue sea; moderate winds; bright warming sunshine.   I can understand why the Incas considered this a sacred lake and believed that it was here that the sun god's children sprang from its cold waters and went to Cusco to begin the Inca dynasty.  But there were other ethnic groups living on the lake before the Incas. The Uros people also have legends of coming from a divine race.  It is thought they developed the floating reed islands for defensive purposes, far enough off shore that rivals,  Incas, and later Spanish cavaliers would find it difficult to bring their armies against them.  Sadly, it is reported that many of the Uros descendants  died or went to the mainland in the past century before tourism provided an added means of monetary and cultural support.  My poor Spanish was  not so noticeable, as they speak Aymara which I didn't know at all--and a little tourist English.

Before reaching the man-made "artificial" Uros islands, we moved through water channels with natural reed and marshy mini-islands populated by ducks, birds, and even some small pigs and chickens (how did they get there?).  As fish, ducks, and birds are an important part of the islanders' diet, we passed several small boats  of hunters and fishermen that morning.  But the real support (literally) for these islanders is the tortora reed.

We were told there is a population of around 2,00 that live on the 40+ floating islands.  The bases of the islands vary in depths of 2-5 meters of soil (depending of the island's age and care), held together by the roots of the tortora reed and topped with layers of cut reeds.  The layer needs to be constantly renewed, as the reeds dry and break in sunny weather and rot in rain.   There is no dirt for the cultivation of crops.  Each island supports a family grouping, but they have a communal governance and rotate the presidency among the islands.  There are different religious groups as well--Catholics, Protestant, and Mormon (LDS)--but they all seem to get along.  (See article about LDS members http://lds.org/liahona/2011/07/islands-of-faith-a-story-of-diligence?lang=eng&query=lds+lake+titicaca,+peru)

The tortora reed is used to make their houses, watch towers, and boats and is also part of their diet.  The surface of the islands was sort of spongy to walk on  which was particularly difficult for Dale with his crutches.  However, the islands seem securely set where they were (not too far from shore), and there didn't seem to be a likelihood that one might float away to another part of the lake in the middle of the night.

When we arrived on our designated island, we were shown how they cut and use the tortora and invited into their small homes.  Cooking is done outside with a portable pot, and the insides are simply furnished.  The young man who showed me his hut said they keep warm enough in winter with their blankets and sweaters.  However, he had added some modern touches.  With his solar panel, he gets enough electricity to power a battery that runs a small tv!  But I didn't see any ipads yet.

The people were gracious, and the children were delighted to entertain us with songs they had learned in school from different nationalities (with a request for donations).  They also had some lovely handicrafts--especially the stitched and pieced  hangings and tortora reed souvenirs.  I got a small boat mobile.  Then they took us in their reed boat to another floating island where we caught our motorized boat to head toward the rocky island of Amantini (next post).

So what is the really highest lake in the world?  According to google sources, it is a bit further south on the side of the highest active volcano in the world on the border of Chile and Argentina.  However, some consider Ojos del Salado  at 6,390 meters (20,965 ft.) a pool and not a proper lake,  as it is only 100 meters or about 300 ft. in diameter.  If one counts these high unnavigable "pools," Lake Titicaca is only the 35th highest body of water.  But who would want to go around in circles in a pool when one could spend days navigating Lake Titicaca?

Click link below for slideshow:
The Floating Islands of Lake Titicaca
Music:  Alpa, Flor De Un Dia, Machu Picchu
Further Information:
Insight Guides: Peru
The Essential Book: Discovering Peru
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lake_Titicaca