Desert Mummies of Nazca and Ica, Peru

August 2011

I knew about the Incas before I came to Peru, but had little knowledge of the many complex cultures that preceded them.   The Paracas culture that established itself around 800 BC appears to be the oldest  in the dry southwestern seacoast of Peru.   This was supplanted by the Nazca culture around 100 AD-600 AD.  Following devastating droughts from El Nino, the Waris took control of the area (600 AD-1200 AD), before the Incas finally arrived  (1400 AD-1532 AD).   As none of these left any written records, their histories and customs must be inferred through the buildings, pottery, textiles and mysterious images that they created.

Leaving the Paracas National Reserve around noon, we were faced with choosing between four excellent sites to visit on our drive to Nazca (Nasca).  Near the city of Ica, there is a natural oasis with reported medicinal properties (Lake Huacachina); in Ica is the recommended Museo Regional with pottery, textiles, and mummies from ancient local inhabitants;  near Pisco is Tambo Colorado,  an extensive, well-preserved Inca complex; and then there are the unexplained Palpa geoglyphs carved on a mountain side (photo).  We chose the museum and Palpa drawings, wishing we could have visited all four.

On the way to Ica, we passed irrigated fields which support grape vines (Peru's best wine-growing area), fields of red onions (harvested in large reddish bags), and other vegetation.   Ica itself is a sprawling desert city (population 246,844)  where things can get literally shaken up.  It has a history of natural disasters.  Like Pisco, it was severely damaged in the 8.0 magnitude earthquake in 2007.

After a lesser quake last October, Ica was again damaged in January 2012 by a 6.2 quake---1,000 homes were damaged and 1,700 people were homeless, but amazingly no one was killed.  Fortunately, the ground was at peace when we were there.   Ica is a city with old and new churches ( we passed one of many LDS chapels in Peru), modern super stores, lots of crazy traffic, and the small regional museum with some of the best and earliest artifacts of the region.  It is also the home of the exclusive resort, Las Dunas, which has been featured on Lifestyles of the Rich and Famous.

Ica's museum is not fancy, and they had to turn some people away that day as they did not have any cash to make change for the admission price.  However, there were interesting displays from Paracas, Nasca and Wari cultures on the evolution of pottery; remarkable colorful blankets and textiles (best of the ancient Peruvians) decorated with intricate patterns, embroidery, and feather art;   displays of human mummies as well a mummified parrot and "trophy" heads; and the mysterious Inca knotted quipas which appear to have been used in making calculations and records.  The Paracas used trepanning, the deformation of the skull to elongate the forehead, and developed a sophisticated manner of mummification which, with the dry climate, resulted in exceptional preservation of the bodies of these ancient people.  Sadly, a number of precious textiles have been stolen.  Such items are highly prized in the illegal markets.  The museum also had an outdoor miniature reproduction of the Nazca line lay out, so that climbing to the outlook area, we  saw the shapes as they would be seen from the air.  It helped us prepare for our flight the next day.

After a very refreshing soft ice cream cone and replenishing our bottled water supply at their "Target-like" super store, we continued through dry valleys and mountains toward Palpa.  We stopped at one mountain pass to view the rock formation considered to be the profile of Abraham Lincoln.  One could clearly see the a face-like rock formation, though I thought it looked more like George Washington!  It was dusk as we came to the unexplained Palpa geoglyphs, carved on the side of a mountain.  As they were so unusual, I will discuss them in my next post with the Nazca lines.

It was dark when we finally arrived in Nazca.  The our hotel was hard to find as we drove through town.  There were lots of people out on the streets, and it somehow reminded me of a tough western town.  We felt like we had found our own private oasis when we entered the walled  Don Agucho Hostal.  The rooms were set around a well-designed courtyard with shaped cactus, colorful bougainvillea, and a swimming pool.  The rooms were more spartan.  We were hungry, so most of us went into town for dinner.  Our restaurant was built incorporating native plants, had fire brassieres on the floor for warmth that you had to avoid tripping over  that chilly night, local entertainment, and very slow service.  We debated what to eat the night before our flight over the Nazca lines, as many experience air sickness.  I don't usually have difficulties, but chose a bland pasta dish that was too salty when I probably should have just gotten their great Peruvian food.  It was quite late when I crawled into bed, only to have my needed rest interrupted by early morning roosters, barking dogs, and bicycle or cow bells for early deliveries in the surrounding town.

Nazca often has morning fogs that delay flights over the lines.  Although we were ready to go early, we received word that our flight would be delayed.  This hotel had one of the better breakfasts available, but we only ate a little because we anticipated stomach problems.  The airport was one big room with multiple check points with lots of souvenir stalls across the parking lot and even a place for a windy, outdoor massage.  After checking in (they weigh each passenger to balance the plane),  our driver suggested we use our 2 hour wait time to drive out to the desolate ancient cemetery to see the mummies.

I have seen Rameses II and his mummified companions in the Cairo Museum as well as desert-dried mummies from Western China, but the Nasca mummies found in the Chauchilla Cemetery had far more endearing charm.  Since the Spanish arrived, these 1,000+ year-old Nazca tombs have been raided, and whatever treasures, fine pottery, and beautiful textiles they had have been taken by robbers and museums.  So there they sit, almost like regular folk except they don't have skin and can't breathe, in the colored robes they were tied into so long ago.

As I understand, the Nasca people had a skilled method to remove the organs after which they dried the bodies and arranged them in a fetal position bundled with robes.  Their hair is intact and often long and colorful.   I'm not into the macabre, but I liked that these people looked like they had been prepared for their next life with tender care.  The separate skulls and bones were from bundles that were destroyed by tomb robbers.

This is the only site in Peru where you can see the mummies in situ, and I think they look pretty comfortable. Along with the dozen or  so open tombs, you see many indentations in the surrounding area where other  tombs must be.  There are reed-woven canopies over the tombs to shade them from the intense sun, but no water-proofing because it just doesn't rain there.  Initially, the Nazca people placed the bodies in separate chambers, but later put them in groups.  More friendly-like.  There were also plates with dried-up  food in case they got hungry.

We passed a more recent cemetery on the return, hoping that it was not for those who didn't survive the flight over the Nazca lines.  Perhaps visiting a cemetery just before flying is not such a great idea...  See the next post for aerial photos and proof I survived (and loved it)!


Click link below for slideshow:
Nazca and the Mummies

Music:  Chucclla, Allpa Machu Piccchu, Vol. II
Additional Information:  http://www.tourisminica.com/lugares-ica.php?q=2
http://wikitravel.org/en/Nazca#b
Jose Miguel Helfer Arguedas, The Nasca Lines, Ediciones del Hipocampo Sac

Peruvian (Humboldt) Penguins and Other Cute Creatures on the Islas Ballestas, Peru

August 2011

Finally--my Penguin Post!  For those following my posts, I last wrote about Paracas at the Peruvian tip of the driest desert on earth along the southwestern coast of South America (see sidebar).   This desolate landscape seems like an unlikely place to find bird islands, but right off the shore are the three incredible Islas Ballestas.

As they are part of the protected marine reserve, you can only get there by licensed tour boats and even then, no one is allowed to disembark.  So all photos were taken long distance, either when the boat was speeding across the waters or bobbing up and down in choppy waters in competition with surrounding boats and about 30 fellow passengers all aiming for the perfect shot.   Despite those limitations, I was thrilled by what I saw and hope my photos convey the marvel of this place often referred to as the Peruvian Galapagos.

We boarded our boat with the Italian friends we had made in our Manu adventure (see PE Manu on sidebar) at the harbor of Paracas for an 8 a.m. departure.  We  headed toward the peninsula where  rocky alcoves and mineral-colored high cliffs provided perfect shelter and resting perches for large white pelicans, seagulls, terns, and red-headed turkey vultures.  Rising above these is a 200 meter high bas relief,  known as the Candelabrum, that was carved on a sandy rock mountain.  No one knows why or when this figure (reminded me of a desert cactus) was created, but it has stood on the side of this mountain, visible only from the sea, for centuries.  They say it is not related to the strange desert lines and designs of Nazca to its south, but it is still an enigmatic mystery.

From the peninsula, you just have to follow the line of flying birds, stretched out as far as you can see to the rocky islands.  At first, the islands appear to be spotted, but soon it becomes apparent that they are almost entirely covered in mostly black-and-white birds.  I have never seen anything like it.









 The most common birds were the Peruvian Booby (photo), terns, and gulls.  One of the most distinctive was the dark Inca Tern with its bright red bill and feet (left corner)

There were also numerous groups of Brandt's black Cormorants and the white -breasted Guanay Cormorants (photo) that slide their thin bodies gracefully into the sea.  They say there are 70 bird species known in the area, including visiting albatross.  With all those birds come a lot of bird droppings.  Periodically, the government collects the guano (droppings) and sells it for fertilizer.  Not a job I would want.

But, of course, the penguins were my favorite.  The Peruvian or Humboldt Penguins are a relative to the African, Magellean, and Galapagos penguins and enjoy keeping cool in the cold Humboldt current that comes up the coast from Antarctica.  They are medium-sized penguins (abt. 2 ft. tall  and 10-12 lbs.)  Even though they are now endangered (less than 12,000), they are popular at zoos.  But I much preferred them in the wild.  We were quite concerned when we saw a young penguin who appeared to be lost from the group, wandering alone on a separate path.  I hope he found his way back to the safety of his home before being seized by  large bird or a hungry fur seal.

However, it is not just birds who have taken to the islands.  There are seals, sea lions, and fur seals from the Galapagos that love to lounge on the island rocks.  Most appeared totally content to just lie in the sun and had the sweetest "smiles" on their faces.

Occasionally, one would rise up and start barking at the others to move off its space.  Just as I was about to capture such a moment, a younger, smiling seal popped up right in the center of the photo, oblivious to the action around it---like a child wanting to get in the picture, too.

On our return, we saw a fin rising above the water.  We were quickly reassured that we had entered dolphin, not shark territory.  For the return, local fishermen feed the dolphins to be a welcoming surprise.   What a remarkable place on our amazing earth!  Enjoy more views in the slideshow.

Click link below for slideshow:
Islas Ballestas
Music: Tito la Rosa, Lo Mejor de Tito La Rosa: Meditacion


Additional Information:  
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Humboldt_Penguin
Ber VanPerlo, Birds of Mexico and Central America

Paracas, Peru: Tsunami Survivor in the Sechura Desert

August 2011

On August 15, 2007 (4 years prior to our arrival), a significant 8.1 magnitude earthquake hit the southern Peruvian coast just north of the city of Pisco.  Tremors were felt all the way to Lima, but Pisco sustained the worst damage with hundreds killed in the collapsed cathedral and up to 80% of its homes damaged or destroyed.  On the other hand, the nearby, small seaside community of Paracas sustained a 10 meter (32 ft.) tsunami with little building damage or loss of life.   How did Paracas survive so well?  I guess because it was sparsely populated, there were few tall buildings, the tourist boats to the Islas Ballestas had returned for the day, and the tsunami's force  hit the desolate high desert cliffs rising from the sea.    The greatest damage was done to the large rock formations on the coast, especially one known as The Cathedral.

With that history, why would we choose Reserva Nacional de Paracas as a destination?  It is often referred to as Peru's Galapagos, because, despite the arid conditions, there is an amazing variety of sea birds (including Humbolt penguins) and sea mammals which have made this their home.  The waters produce large numbers of krill which also bring a wide variety of fish to this area.  The Paracas Reserve is one of the few marine preserves and is a World Heritage Nature Site.

But the reserve is also part of the Peruvian Sechura Desert which connects with the coastal Chilean Atacama Desert, the driest desert in the world.  I thought it strange that the driest desert should be along a seacoast and just over the mountains from some of the wettest rain forests.  But the Humboldt Current from Antarctica which moves up  the western South American coast is cold and fast and produces fog, but not in-land rain.  The Andes are so tall, they block any moisture trying to escape from the rain forest. Hence,  a very dry desert. As my grandmother lived in a California desert town, I came to appreciate the beauty in desert landscapes and the variety of living things that exist in difficult conditions.  But this is an extreme desert.

It seemed so strange to view the rugged coast with turquoise sea and then to turn around and see only desert sands.  We had an enthusiastic young guide who had grown up with seals and pelicans as friends while his marine-biologist father pursued his research.   As we entered the reserve, we could see at a distance a shallow lake where rare red-winged flamingos were wading.  The roads were made from the natural salt in this mineral rich area.  But this was not always a desert--we saw fossilized sea shells from when it was part of the ocean floor and petrified wood from a time when the climate was more favorable.

But my story wanders.  In order to get to Paracas from our last stop at Lake Titicaca, we had to fly back up to Lima where we met our driver who then took us south along the coast on the famous Pan-American Highway.  The ground became more barren, and we saw numerous small huts where locals established homesteading rights.  There were also many long white tents where chickens (pollo) were raised.  I didn't want to know the conditions under which they were kept.  I seriously doubt that  they were "range-free."  We arrived at our lovely hotel (nicest we had been in so far) in the small town of Paracas late afternoon.  We then headed to the line of restaurants and souvenir stands along the shore to get  a fish dinner.  While locals encouraged us to try the Peruvian specialty ceviche (spicy, marinated raw white fish), I enjoyed instead the crispy corn snacks and delicious cooked sea bass.

After a good night sleep, we were surprised at breakfast to find the Italian friends who had been with us on our Manu Rain Forest adventure at the beginning of our trip (see PE Manu posts).  We swapped stories (their van had lost a wheel on those treacherous jungle mountain roads on the return trip) as we waited for our boat to see the amazing penguins and seals on the Islas Ballestas.  The wildlife was so remarkable that I have given it its own post (next).

So it was not until midday that we wandered into the desert portion of the Paracas Reserve before heading to Nazca.  Paracas is not only the name of a town and a national park, it is also the name of an ancient Pre-Inca people who developed sophisticated pottery and beautiful textiles from 1,000 BC-1 AD, and the name of the blustery winds.  The Paracas wind had started to blow as we came to the coast.  Our guide explained that it often goes in 3-day cycles:  the first day, a persistent high wind; the second, often a blinding sandstorm; and the third day, a gradual decline.  Even though it was the first day, the haze in some of my photos is from the blowing sand, not any city pollution.  They say there are places on this coast which are good for water sports, but you must avoid the deadly rapid currents, the high winds, and the giant, nasty jellyfish.  We were content to just admire this fascinating piece of Planet Earth from the cliffs.

Click link below for slideshow:
Paracas

Music: Tito La Rosa, Tinkuy Pacha, Lo Mejor de Tito la Rosa: Meditacion
Additional Information:  
Insight Guides: Peru
The Essential Book:  Discovering Peru

The Breathless Beauty of Isla Taquile, Peru

August 2011

The rocky island of Taquile (not to be confused with the Mexican drink tequila) on Lake Titicaca took my breath away-- literally and figuratively.  Arriving mid-morning after our overnight on Isla Amantani, we docked on the shore at the start of a switchback trail that rose steeply to the top of the island.  Teddie and Dale decided not to attempt the climb up and then the descent down the rocky steps.  They stayed on the boat, as it was to pick us up at the other side of the island in a couple of hours.  We were told there was a cantina with snacks and a waiting area where we would meet. So, once we committed to the climb, there was no way back except to cross the island.  It's a small island (6 km long and 1km wide), but the challenge is in the vertical climb.

Living at sea level, I had chosen to  take my altitude sickness pills (Diamox) and had been staying at high altitudes for over a week, but I quickly found myself huffing and puffing as I started the path to the top of Taquile.  I frequently had to stop for deep breaths and used my raised arm "flapping" exercise to deepen my breaths  and  regain a good breathing pace.  I fell behind the rest of the group and appreciated it when my friends waited and took my slower pace as I moved up the mountain.  However, that did give us the chance to stop to enjoy the magnificent sights of the crystal blue sea and the terraced island.

A characteristic of the island was the arches we saw with three terra cotta heads of men in their broad-brimmed hats.  I never found out its meaning. We were told the rest of the group would meet us at the arch, as they were doing a side trip.  We stayed a few minutes at the first arch, and Jan talked in Spanish with the young girl sitting alone on the hillside, spinning wool and selling family-made knit items to tourists who might come along.  I bought a couple of animal finger puppets that she had made.  The girl spoke Spanish, although the native language of the island is still Quechua.


Realizing this was probably not our meeting place, we started the hike again to the top.  Many of the houses we passed had solar panels to generate some electricity.  We were met on the path (obviously the major thoroughfare) by colorful locals herding horned cows and festive sheep.  Like Amantani, there were no paved roads, cars, or other motorized vehicles.

It was at the third arch leading to the main plaza where we finally did find members of our group.  We had reached a height of 4,033 meters  or 13,231 ft. above sea level.  The square was quite empty around noon on this Sunday.  Somehow, it reminded me of the Bolivian scenes from the movie "Butch Cassidy and the Sundance Kid" even though none of that was filmed by a lake.  Perhaps my mind went there because I could see the misty blue mountains of Bolivia (where they were killed) across Lake Titicaca.  I half-expected some cowboy gun fight to spill out of one of the adobe buildings around the plaza, but it remained quiet, peaceful, and beautiful.

Like Isla Amantani, Taquile  doesn't have hotels, although arrangements can be made to stay with families.  Likewise, arrangements are made with families to provide lunches with typical foods to the groups that come.  We did find a "My House" restaurant near the plaza where we could use the "flush" toilets.  Flushing was accomplished by pouring a bucket of water you carried into the bathroom into the toilet once you were finished.  It worked.

We went with our boat group to our host's house where we sat outside at long tables with a great view.  Our guide then explained the symbolism of hats on the island.  I think the young, unmarried men wear a red  knit cap with a white tassel;  married men have a colored cap with a multi-colored tassel; and the more prominent men add a felt hat on top.  It certainly removes any ambiguity in relationships--although the island is so small, I would think everyone already knows. The rest of the group stayed for lunch, while the three of us started the descent to take some rolls and a little food we had purchased in the plaza to Dale and Teddie.

To get down the mountain on this side of the island, you have to walk down 530+ uneven, rocky steps to the dock below.  There is no railing and rarely a wall or support.  I was ok breathing, so the other two went on ahead with the food.  However, I only walked down about 527+ steps, as I tripped on one, then fell forward down several.   I sat on a step to assess the damage for a few minutes.  My hands and knees were scraped and bruised, and I could tell one knee was bleeding.  Of more concern, I had twisted an ankle.  Fortunately, I had worn short hiking boots or the damage would have been worse, and I did not break my new camera!!!  However, I stared down at the remaining 200+ stairs and wondered if I would have to stay on this island forever.

With stinging hands, a bloodied knee, and a tender ankle, I very slowly and carefully hobbled down the rocky steps.  Whenever I reached a place where I didn't see how I could get down without putting too much weight on my sore ankle (and risk more injury), someone would be coming up or down who kindly offered to help me.  It seemed like I was on those steps forever.  The group that had stayed for lunch were coming down as I finally reached the shore.  Unfortunately,  the cantina at the bottom had been closed, and those of us who hadn't been to lunch had only a few remaining snacks to share.

I got my knee bandaged and kept my swollen ankle elevated as we again crossed the beautiful waters of Lake Titicaca to return to Puno, tired and hungry.   I wrapped my ankle and walked (my hunger was more intense than my pain) a few blocks from our hotel to the main Plaza de Armas.  It was dusk and turning cold, so we just admired the  1757 Cathedral San Carlos Borromeo  from a distance and hurried on to find a welcoming restaurant with brick oven pizza.  We heard a band coming towards the main square, so waited for it.  It appeared to be in support of veterans or in protest of something--we couldn't figure out the purpose of their march.  It went around the near-empty plaza  and left, but then came back down the street and did the same thing two more times during dinner.   I  chose a tasty chicken dinner,  but there was confusion as two of us ordered the same thing and only one dinner was delivered.  But my dinner was worth the extra wait, and I ended it with a cup of delicious, rich, hot chocolate--which, of course, makes any day turn out right.

It was another early morning departure to take us to the airport in the nearby industrial city of Juliaca.  I must admit I had not seen a worse traffic situation since Urumqi, China.  The drivers actually had to be pretty skilled, because there appeared to be no lanes or traffic regulation.  Vehicles simply moved to the nearest empty spot as they worked their way toward their destination.  See if you can figure out which lane we were in!  Amazingly, we made it to the airport and enjoyed our Peru Air flight past the snow-capped volcanoes and deep Colca Canyons with a landing in Arequipa on our way back to Lima.  I wish we had had time to visit Arequipa and search for the Andean condor over the canyons, but we had to return to Lima to start our journey to the Paracas Desert on the southern coast.

Click link below for slideshow:
Isla Taquile

Music:  Allpa, Wanakauri, Machu Pichu
Further Information:  The Essential Book:  Discovering Peru

Festival Night on Isla Amantani, Lake Titicaca, Peru

August 2011

After our morning visit to the floating Uros Islands on Lake Titicaca, our motorized boat headed to the solid, rocky Isla Amantani.  Amantani is the larger of the 40-some islands of Lake Titicaca and is intertwined with the history of the Inca Empire.   Although the nearby Bolivian islands of the Sun and Moon were considered the sacred birthplace of the Inca race, two of the great Inca Emperors, Pachama and Pachatata, built temples on Amantani.  In the days of Pachatata, it was also used as a prison island because of its isolation. The Spaniards conquered it, and their descendants retained tight control over the inhabitants even after Peru became politically independent.  It wasn't until a bloody rebellion that the indigenous people could create  their current peaceful, communal way of life.  I read there are about 800 families or almost 4,000 people living on the island.

Isla Amntani is about 4 hours by boat from Puno or 2 hours from the Uros Islands over brilliant blue waters, dotted with steep, terraced islands.  When we arrived at Amantani, we were greeted by local women in wool, pleated skirts, bright flowered blouses,  and black shawls with brilliant embroidered flowers who were there to take us to their homes for the night.  One industrious woman even had her hand-drop spindle in hand to make use of the spare moments. (Having previously done some spinning myself, I was impressed by her skill).  

As I had discussed in my Crossing the Andes post, I had decided to take medicine to prevent altitude sickness.  While I did not feel ill as we climbed the hills above the highest navigable lake in the world, my sea-level lungs were really pumping to find some more oxygen at over 12,500 ft.  Several of us took the walk up to the houses rather slowly.  Fortunately, they had placed some stone "mosaics" in the path to make it more interesting to look down.  There are no paved roads or cars or bikes on Amantani.   It is also called the Island of Kantuta, a reddish trumpet flower that is the national flower of Peru and Bolivia, connected (of course)with Inca legends.

Our boat group was divided among several families, but the 5 of us were able to stay together in the home of Isadore and Alfredo, a gracious older couple.  Fortunately, our guide Ruben was a good friend and stayed with them as well, communicating with them in their native Quechua language.  I think "Azezhenki" was "Hello" and "Waliki" meant "I'm fine," but I couldn't figure out where to insert them in a conversation.  The couple graciously accepted our food gifts from the mainland (rice, sugar, etc. that are expensive to have shipped here), and served us a hearty, delicious warm barley vegetable soup with local cheese and bread.  It absolutely hit the spot after a morning at sea.

The rooms in their home were arranged around a courtyard where they kept their tools and a big batch of tuber potatoes that looked more like carrots.  Their quarters and the dining space were downstairs while the guest bedrooms were up steep stairs.  I never understood why the relatively short Incas and Peruvians would create staircases with such tall steps!  The guidebooks all said to expect no electricity or running water, but I think it must have been some time since those authors stayed on the island.  At least in our town (never learned its name), the community uses solar power to give the homes power to use electric lights, but there are no electric appliances or outlets.  Being wintertime, it was nice having electric lights in our rooms when it was dark.

Our house shared a communal courtyard with about 5 houses that had 2 flushing toilets, cold water faucets and a cold shower.  It was there we met Isadore and Alfredo's daughter Gladys and their darling grandchildren, Franklin and Leah.  Franklin (about 9 years old) was eager to use the English he was learning in school (quite good) and to show off his math skills with English answers.  He actually ended  up as our translator and guide for much of that afternoon and evening.

The guidebooks recommended a hike to the Inca ruins at the top of the island for the sunset and then indicated that in the evening, the hosts might have us try on some of their embroidered clothing and teach us their dances.  Again, this was not our experience.  Some of our group found the initial climb challenging, and only Jan went on the hike to the top of the island.  However, as the winter dusk was settling in before they got to the top, she decided to head back down the uneven trail and steps before sunset so that she didn't have to do it in the dark.

While the other tourists were hiking the trail, I had one of the most delightful evenings of the entire trip.  It was the final night of a several-day festival for the local folk.  Isadore and Franklin took me and two others of our group to the little town plaza surrounded by the church and a few town buildings.  The plaza was filled with stalls of lovely handicrafts and locals dressed in their finest.

They were dancing and visiting and just enjoying themselves.  It was such an authentic experience.  Only the vendors paid much attention to the dozen or so tourists that showed up.  The temperature became much colder as the sun started to go down, and I was delighted to replace my old hat and pair of gloves for much warmer and softer alpaca mittens and cap.

But my very, very favorite part was a little girl (3-4  years old) dressed in her green wool pleated shirt and a black embroidered shawl whose constant companion was a young lamb.  Just like in the English nursery rhyme, everywhere this child went, "her lamb was sure to go."  It ran after her across the plaza like a pet dog and never left her side.  OK--I got carried away taking pictures, but it was the sweetest moment.  There was a beautiful sunset, even if we weren't at the top of the island.  As night settled in, we had a filling dinner with another delicious soup, baked vegetables, cheeses, and Munoz herbal tea.  A satisfying end to  a fascinating day.

But our adventures were not yet over.  While I had packed my trusty bright flashlight in my little overnight bag, I had left behind the extra batteries.  So, of course, my batteries gave out.  Teddie and I shared her flashlight for our last trip to the courtyard toilets for the night.  While waiting for a turn,  a cold wind started to blow, and a sudden rain/hail storm moved in as we hurried back to our house and up the outdoor stairs to our frigid room.  We had an electric light, but alas, no heat.  We slept in all our clothes (without shoes) under some very thick blankets.  Teddie had brought some of those metallic emergency blankets which we also spread on top to stay warm.

It was hard to emerge from our warm nest into the cold room in the morning, but the storm had passed, and it was another beautiful sunny day.  After a tasty breakfast with fried "doughnut" bread, we bade farewell to our hosts and started down the hill, watching men already carrying loads of goods from boats up the steep hills to the town.  In less than 24 hours, Isla Amantani had become one of my favorite places in Peru.

When I returned to the States, I was surprised to find in my Whole Foods grocery store, a wild rice/ quinoa blend made by Seeds of Change called Amantani.  The whole grain blend did capture the flavors of the region, and I liked the description on the package:  "upon Lake Titicaca, you'll find the namesake of the product you hold in your hands: a charming little island called Amantani.  It's in this enchanting region that we found the inspiration for red, black, and white quinoa for our Amantani blend."  Life isn't easy on Amantani, but they have made it beautiful.

Clink link below for slideshow:
Amantani

Music:  Peruvian Harp and Flute Ensemble,  Titicaca, The Andes--20 Harp and Flute Favorites
Additional Information: 
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Amantan%C3%AD

Floating on the Floating Uros Islands of Lake Titicaca, Peru

August 2011

I came to the shores of Lake Titicaca with lots of questions: Why would anyone want to live on an island on the highest navigable lake in the world?  Do the floating islands ever sink or float away?  How do you cook and wash and keep warm on an island of reeds?  Can you grow crops?  What does the "ground" feel like? Does the lake freeze in winter? If this is the highest "navigable" lake, what is the truly highest lake in the world?  etc.   I didn't get all the answers, but will share what I learned.

We spent a chilly winter night (other side of the equator)  in Puno (3,827 meters or over 12,500 ft above sea level), the official capital of Peru's Altiplano Basin and unofficial folklore center, known for its handicrafts, dances, costumes, legends, and fiestas.  Particularly notable is their summer Fiesta of the Virgin of the Candelaria on February 2  which celebrates the reported appearance of the Virgin May to nearby miners.  There can be up to 5,000 musicians and dancers in colorful ethnic costumes.   Under the Spanish, Puno was one of the wealthiest cities on the continent due to its proximity to the very prosperous Laykakota silver mines.  There were volatile disputes during those mining days, and even as we were planning our trip, there were concerns about whether we could stay here due to heated political disputes.  However, those were resolved, and Puno was quiet and nearly deserted on our winter evening.

As we were scheduled to spend the next night on the island Amantani, we packed a small overnight bag and joined a group of about 12 others in the morning for our boating adventure.  As we drove to the docks, we passed a busy street market before entering the inevitable long row of tourist/souvenir shops.  Our motorized boat had comfortable seating, large windows, a viewing deck on top, and a very bright floral carpet on the ceiling of the cabin.

Our boat soon ventured onto the largest lake in South America (8,000+ sq. km or 3,100 sq miles) with an average depth of 107 meters (351 ft).  The lake is a shared border between Peru (60%) and Bolivia (40%), and it is possible to see the Bolivian coast from the taller islands.  While the lake is cold, it does not freeze, and some claim that a fresh-water version of the bull shark can be found in the depths of this lake that is fed by and was probably formed by glaciers (how did sharks get there??).

It was a gorgeous day on  Lake Titicaca--bright blue skies; fluffy white clouds; crystal turquoise-blue sea; moderate winds; bright warming sunshine.   I can understand why the Incas considered this a sacred lake and believed that it was here that the sun god's children sprang from its cold waters and went to Cusco to begin the Inca dynasty.  But there were other ethnic groups living on the lake before the Incas. The Uros people also have legends of coming from a divine race.  It is thought they developed the floating reed islands for defensive purposes, far enough off shore that rivals,  Incas, and later Spanish cavaliers would find it difficult to bring their armies against them.  Sadly, it is reported that many of the Uros descendants  died or went to the mainland in the past century before tourism provided an added means of monetary and cultural support.  My poor Spanish was  not so noticeable, as they speak Aymara which I didn't know at all--and a little tourist English.

Before reaching the man-made "artificial" Uros islands, we moved through water channels with natural reed and marshy mini-islands populated by ducks, birds, and even some small pigs and chickens (how did they get there?).  As fish, ducks, and birds are an important part of the islanders' diet, we passed several small boats  of hunters and fishermen that morning.  But the real support (literally) for these islanders is the tortora reed.

We were told there is a population of around 2,00 that live on the 40+ floating islands.  The bases of the islands vary in depths of 2-5 meters of soil (depending of the island's age and care), held together by the roots of the tortora reed and topped with layers of cut reeds.  The layer needs to be constantly renewed, as the reeds dry and break in sunny weather and rot in rain.   There is no dirt for the cultivation of crops.  Each island supports a family grouping, but they have a communal governance and rotate the presidency among the islands.  There are different religious groups as well--Catholics, Protestant, and Mormon (LDS)--but they all seem to get along.  (See article about LDS members http://lds.org/liahona/2011/07/islands-of-faith-a-story-of-diligence?lang=eng&query=lds+lake+titicaca,+peru)

The tortora reed is used to make their houses, watch towers, and boats and is also part of their diet.  The surface of the islands was sort of spongy to walk on  which was particularly difficult for Dale with his crutches.  However, the islands seem securely set where they were (not too far from shore), and there didn't seem to be a likelihood that one might float away to another part of the lake in the middle of the night.

When we arrived on our designated island, we were shown how they cut and use the tortora and invited into their small homes.  Cooking is done outside with a portable pot, and the insides are simply furnished.  The young man who showed me his hut said they keep warm enough in winter with their blankets and sweaters.  However, he had added some modern touches.  With his solar panel, he gets enough electricity to power a battery that runs a small tv!  But I didn't see any ipads yet.

The people were gracious, and the children were delighted to entertain us with songs they had learned in school from different nationalities (with a request for donations).  They also had some lovely handicrafts--especially the stitched and pieced  hangings and tortora reed souvenirs.  I got a small boat mobile.  Then they took us in their reed boat to another floating island where we caught our motorized boat to head toward the rocky island of Amantini (next post).

So what is the really highest lake in the world?  According to google sources, it is a bit further south on the side of the highest active volcano in the world on the border of Chile and Argentina.  However, some consider Ojos del Salado  at 6,390 meters (20,965 ft.) a pool and not a proper lake,  as it is only 100 meters or about 300 ft. in diameter.  If one counts these high unnavigable "pools," Lake Titicaca is only the 35th highest body of water.  But who would want to go around in circles in a pool when one could spend days navigating Lake Titicaca?

Click link below for slideshow:
The Floating Islands of Lake Titicaca
Music:  Alpa, Flor De Un Dia, Machu Picchu
Further Information:
Insight Guides: Peru
The Essential Book: Discovering Peru
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lake_Titicaca