Go confidently in the direction of your dreams.
Live the life you've imagined. Henry David Thoreau

Slideshows and Photos

SLIDESHOWS LOST TO ICLOUD

SADLY, ON JUNE 30 ALL THE LINKS TO MY SLIDESHOWS WILL DISAPPEAR WHEN APPLE DISCONTINUES "MY GALLERY" AS PART OF THEIR CHANGE TO ICLOUD.

I AM ALSO PREPARING AND PACKING FOR MY PERSONAL MOVE. ONCE I AM SETTLED IN A FEW WEEKS, I WILL START TO POST AGAIN AND LOOK FOR A NEW INTERESTING WAY TO SHARE MY PHOTOS THROUGH MY BLOG.

THANK YOU FOR YOUR INTEREST IN MY TRAVELS. I WILL FIX THINGS AS SOON AS I CAN.

Sunday, May 29, 2011

On the Streets of Kyiv (Kiev), Ukraine

August 2010

So what do you like to do when the temperature reaches 104' F(40' C)?  If you live in Kyiv, it looks like you head for the water fountains of Independence Square.  Perhaps you are confused about where and what Kyiv is --even now my computer puts a red line under Kyiv for me to correct the spelling.  But Kyiv (pronounced as one syllable Keev) is the Ukrainian name for the more commonly known Kiev (2-syllable Kee-ev) as the city is known in Russian.

As the Soviet Union crumbled in 1991, the Ukrainian parliament voted for the independent country of Ukraine,  Kyiv became its capital, and Ukrainian (similar to Russian) became the official language.  But that is neither the beginning nor the end of the complex history of the Ukraine.

At Independence Square, one is drawn to the cooling waters of the founders of Kyiv--three Viking brothers (Kiy, Shchek, Khoryv) and their sister Lybed  who came down the Dnieper River from the north in the 9th century and founded the first Eastern Slavic state.   Previously there had been Cimmerians, Scythians, Greeks, and an assortment of tribes.

These Kyvian Rus or Varagians, as they were called, established an empire under Prince Volodymyr (978-1015) that stretched from the Danube to the Volga to the Baltic with Kyiv as the capital.  Prince Volodymyr (not to be confused with Voldemort from Harry Potter)  also converted to Christianity in 989 and married the sister of an Byzantine Emperor--thus establishing the Eastern Orthodox religion in the area.  Ukrainians are quick to point out that  the Russian and other Slavic states grew out of their empire, and for many years, Kyiv was a religious and political center when Moscow was only a small town.

But as I have certainly seen on this journey, no kingdom lasts forever, and, in 1240 AD, Batu, the grandson of Ghengis Kahn sacked the city.  Subsequently there were Tartar, then Lithuanian and Polish rulers until in the 17th Century when it gradually became part of Russia under the early Romanovs.  Once again it became a glittering city.

When the Bolshevik Revolution started during WWI, Kyiv was the site of bloody battles between the Red and White armies.  Although Kyiv was conquered by the Nazis in WW II, the Ukraine remained with the Soviet Union until its independence in 1991.  The giant Statue of the Motherland  (photo)  commemorates the freeing of Kyiv during the "Great Patriotic War,"  WW II.  (look for future  post on Dark Days in Kyiv).


When planning my summer trip, I chose to combine a Danube Cruise (see sidebar posts) with a visit to Kyiv where close friends were serving a mission for the LDS (Mormon) Church to prepare for the opening of the LDS  Temple in Kyiv (look for a  future post).  Through them I got helpful hints and made arrangements, including a wonderful personal guide (Helen).

After an unexplained plane delay in the  Bucharest airport for an hour, I arrived at the Kyiv airport and tried to use my friend's advice to rush to the correct customs line, only to end up with the slowest of all the customs agents.  Fortunately, the arranged driver had waited around, not surprised by all the delays.  I had always heard Kyiv was a beautiful city, but found it exceeded my expectations.


Dropped off at the Khreschatyk Hotel in the center of the city, I checked in and headed up hill to the St. Sophia Cathedral (started in 1017 AD)  to meet Helen in the sweltering heat to begin my discovery of this enchanting city.  Over the next 5 days, despite the terrible heat wave that swept the area (Moscow had record temperatures and terrible bog fires),  I (mostly) walked the streets of Kyiv, consuming countless bottles of water and falling in love with a city whose language I could not speak.  (see sidebar post UA Kyiv:  Failure at McDonalds).

I enjoyed the location of my hotel.  Though not one of the city's expensive luxury hotels, staff were friendly and spoke English, rooms had air conditioning and good beds, and I had a view from my room of  the glimmering domes St. Sophia, and the reflection from Independence Square of the statue of Michael, the Archangel (patron saint of Kyiv) from the entrance.

There was no way I could cover all of my experience in Kyiv in one post--so you will have to wait for separate posts on its parks, churches, memorials, LDS temple, and the fascinating House of Chimeras.   It was hard to extract these from Kyiv, but there is still plenty left to see in the slideshow:  silent, silver-coated mimes and street entertainers near Independence Square;  fashionable buildings that survived the communist regimes; and  expressive statues and plaques of some of Kyiv's great ones: architects, authors, artists, leaders, and others who contributed (not just stiff generals on horses).  They made me want to sit down and have a chat!


There were also the  decorated subway stations for a subway system that I was told was even deeper than in Moscow (but not in one continuous escalator);  underground shopping  at subway stops;  river views; golden domes; a solitary man playing his bandura (national instrument); the remains of the Golden Gate that was built with the defensive walls by Yroslav the Wise in 1037; markets brimming with delectable fruits;  artists and souvenir shopping on Andreyevskiy Street;  a shopping mall (look for the figure of an exhausted peasant husband overlooking the women shopping); famous institutes and universities; Tolstoy's blue house; and the arched rainbow Monument of Friendship of Peoples.

And of course I had to eat some delicious Chicken Kiev while I was there.  Kyiv is also a city of culture with ballets, concerts, puppetry, and opera.  Unfortunately, when I was there in August, most of them were closed for vacations.

You will also see a woman walking  around downtown in her wedding gown.  That apparently is not uncommon, as couples may visit several places around town to have pictures taken as they celebrate their special day.  (more in the upcoming post on parks)  The rest I will let you discover as I lead you on my stroll through Kyiv.  Come back later for more views of Kyiv.

Click link for slideshow:
Walking Kyiv

Music: Ivan Kozlovsky, Sontze Nizenko, Songs and Dances of the Ukraine (Smithsonian Folkways Recordings)

Additional Information:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kiev

Sunday, May 8, 2011

Romania: Transylvania and the Carpathian Mountains

August 2010
This is a glimpse of Transylvania as I saw it on my excursion from Bucharest to Bran Castle in Transylvania. (see sidebar post RO Transylvania which includes Bran Castle, Vlad the Impaler, and Dracula Legends).  I hope you can look past the dirty bus windows, glare of the sun, rainy mists, and oncoming dusk of my photos to see  the colorful houses, rich green forests, majestic mountains, and fading gypsy wagons (in slideshow).

The Carpathian Mountains are the second longest range in Europe and form an arc that starts at the Danube near Bratislava, Slovakia, (see SK Bratislava post), runs along the southern border of Austria, then moves eastward to the Czech Republic and Poland, moves down through the Ukraine into Romania where it bends across and upward again, ending at the Danube River at the Iron Gates (see Danube River Iron Gates post).  Transylvania, the western region of Romania, is renown for its forested beauty.  The Bran Castle is near the Bucegi and Piatra Craiului Mountains.  It had rained during our visit to the castle, but as we finished, the clouds started to lift off the mountains, and we had glorious views of billowy gray clouds with rays of sunshine fighting their way through.

Everyone seems to like Transylvania.  It was once the Kingdom of the Darcians until Emperor Trajan defeated King Decebalus (photo--see Danube River Iron Gates post), conquering it for the Romans in 101 AD.   But the Romans lost it to the Visigoths until the Huns, Bulgars and a few other groups successively claimed it.  The Hungarian Mygars added it to their kingdom about 1000 AD and invited Saxons (Germanic colonies) into Transylvania to protect their borders.  Then it was the Ottomans who took over.  The Habsburgs of Austria claimed it after the Battle of Vienna and Transylvania remained part of Hungary under the Habsburgs until World War I.  It wasn't until December 1, 1918 that the Transylvanian delegation decided to become part of Romania.  There were the struggles of WWII and the communist era, but despite the armies that have crossed these mountain passes for millennia, Transylvania has retained a fresh vitality and country charm that is difficult to find these days.



We passed through the delightful town of Siniai which was named for a nearby monastery.  This is a beautiful area near the Bucegi National Park where downhill skiing is a favorite winter sport.  King Carol I, who helped defeat the Ottomans in the Russo-Turkish War, built the lovely Peles Castle as a summer home here, reigning from 1881-1914.  The famous Romanian composer, George Enescu, spent time here as well.

Returning at dusk, I saw the perfect ending for my Uniworld Eastern European Explorer journey-- two old painted gypsy wagons loading up and heading off in the distance.  My sixteen days down the Danube and into Romania had been a fascinating excursion to discover new sights and meet kind people.  It has taken me 10 months to blog all I experienced.  The next morning I left my new cruise friends and boarded a plane to Kyiv (Kiev), Ukraine.  Check back shortly for my adventures in the Ukraine and Poland.

Click link below for slideshow:
Transylvania and the Carpathian Mountains
Music:  Bela Bartok, Transylvanian Dances for Orchestra: Allegretto, Bucharest Festival Orchestra

More Information:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Transylvania
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Carpathian_Mountains