Go confidently in the direction of your dreams.
Live the life you've imagined. Henry David Thoreau

Slideshows and Photos

SLIDESHOWS LOST TO ICLOUD

SADLY, ON JUNE 30 ALL THE LINKS TO MY SLIDESHOWS WILL DISAPPEAR WHEN APPLE DISCONTINUES "MY GALLERY" AS PART OF THEIR CHANGE TO ICLOUD.

I AM ALSO PREPARING AND PACKING FOR MY PERSONAL MOVE. ONCE I AM SETTLED IN A FEW WEEKS, I WILL START TO POST AGAIN AND LOOK FOR A NEW INTERESTING WAY TO SHARE MY PHOTOS THROUGH MY BLOG.

THANK YOU FOR YOUR INTEREST IN MY TRAVELS. I WILL FIX THINGS AS SOON AS I CAN.

Tuesday, August 30, 2011

Wieliczka Salt Mine, (Krakow) Poland: Sculptured in Salt

August 2010
The idea of spending a couple of hours 135 meters (430+  feet) under the earth in a salt mine was not especially appealing to me.  However, everything I read and heard about a visit to the Krakow region of Poland told me to go.  So I did.  And in so doing, I understand I extended my life by a couple of minutes or so.  Unlike coal mines, there are apparently health benefits to the salt air, and they operate a health spa in the mine where people with respiratory problems can come for treatment.  I did find the air refreshing and easy to breathe.  However, too much salt,  and I guess you could end up too well preserved like this fellow!  Just kidding.

Salt has been a highly prized substance throughout history, as it not only preserves, but adds flavor.  Even Christ spoke of salt losing its savor.  So to find a huge deposit of salt in one's land pretty well guaranteed prosperity.  Mining at Wieliczka started in the Middle Ages.  By 1640, a main haft was sunk to 135 meters (the current tourist route), although the mine now goes to 327 meters.  Nicholas Copernicus, the great Polish astronomer,  visited in 1493 when he was a university student.  Since that time, the mines have continued to attract the great and the humble to see its wonders.

So what's so interesting about salt?  The salt walls, floors, and ceilings of the mine provide a shiny dark gray surface that is held up by wooden beams which become stronger as they are impregnated by the salt.  But the real attractions of this mine are the sculptures that the miners created in their hours underground.  Visitors walk down a total of 378 steps during their descent, but it is not strenuous, as one walks through 22 chambers on the way to the bottom.

 Some chambers demonstrate through salt carvings  how the salt mines operated in early times.  Others contain magnificent carvings to depict historical events or important people.  And someone with  good sense of humor placed a few salt gnomes around to keep an eye on things.  A number of carvings represent religious themes.  While it is an easy and safe walk through the chambers today, there were many dangers to the early miners, particularly methane gas which had to be burned out before the miners could advance.

Using a chamber dug out in the 17th century, Mieczyslaw Kluzek carved in 1967 six life size salt figures, telling the legend of the finding of the salt.  Kinga, the daughter of Bela IV, King of Hungary, was betrothed to the Duke of Cracow in the 13th century.   Kinga received a salt mine in as part of her dowry into which she threw her engagement ring (I wonder what the Duke thought of that).  According to the story, the ring and salt deposits miraculously traveled to Wieliczka.  When she came Cracow, she ordered the miners to dig in a particular spot in Wieliczka, and they found her ring as well as the salt mine.  St. Kinga became the patroness of miners and was canonized in 1999 by Pope John Paul II.

The most spectacular chamber, though, is St. Kinga's Chapel, near the end of the tourist trail.  The huge chamber was carved out in 1896 and for almost 70 years, miner sculptors created a chapel entirely from salt.  It contains remarkable statues and bas relief of scenes from Christ's life and is lit with elegant chandeliers made with salt crystals which causes the salt floors to shimmer.  In the past decade, additional sculptural projects have been completed.  It is difficult to describe the beauty of this glimmering chapel.  Photos do not do justice, as the shimmer of the salt causes reflections that hide the depth and remarkable detail of the carvings.


 Leaving the chapel, one goes through several chambers, greeting the statue of another famous visitor, Goethe, and passing a small brine lake before reaching  gift shops where one can buy salt, health-infused bath salts, and a variety of souvenirs or eat in an under-earth restaurant.  One is then quickly whisked back to our polluted earth's surface in a mine elevator, having added a few moments of health to one's life span.  So, yes, I would add the salt  mine to my list of recommended sites!

Further information:
http://www.krakow-info.com/wielicz.htm

Saturday, August 27, 2011

Castles of Lviv, Ukraine



August 2010
As I explained in my last post about the night train to Lviv, this western corner in the current Ukraine has been a part of many kingdoms and countries.  It was mostly Polish during the Renaissance through Baroque eras, and some royals and notables found the countryside around Lviv a lovely place to call home.  There are at least 10 such old castles/ grand homes in the Lviv area, sometimes referred to as the "Golden Horse-Shoe" tour.  Through the English-speaking staff at InLviv travel agency, I booked a one day excursion to see three castle/palaces in various stages of preservation from the Polish era.

The Olesko Castle stands on a high hill about 75 km from Lviv.  It was built in the 13th century; became a stronghold of the Rus dynasty in the 14th century; but was remodeled in Italian Renaissance style and became a local residence from the 15th-18th centuries.  King Jan Sobieski III was born here in 1629.  While the building itself has an old castle feel and has some well-preserved frescoes on the walls, it is most remarkable for its art collection.  In the 1960s, it was designated as an extension of the art museum of Lviv and has a fascinating collection of art and furnishings from the 10th-19th century.

I especially enjoyed Renaissance paintings and sculptures of women holding books, obviously pleased to display their learning, and an old sailing map of the Mediterranean world that had been engraven on a massive desk.  There was the colossal painting by M. Altomonte of The Battle of Vienna where the Turks were defeated in 1683 with troops commanded by King Jan Sobieski III and the Habsburgs.  Until this journey, I had not grasped how significant that event was in the history and development of Europe.  The museum also housed religious art as well as some very distinctive portraits, including King Sobieski's  Queen Maria Casimira Louise de la Orange d'Arquien (Marysenka), a beautiful and powerful woman. The love letters exchanged between the King and Queen are reported to not only demonstrate their affection, but also to give insights into their times.  As Maria outlived two husbands, I understand that her interesting (and perhaps controversial) story extends beyond her time as queen.

I was saddened by the disrepair of the Pidhirtsi Castle.  It must have been amazingly beautiful when built in the 17th century.  Its facade and the Italian designed gardens cascading down the hill reminded me of some of the later French chateaux.  It was once the property of noble families and was considered the most beautiful palace in Poland.  It entertained rulers from King Sobieski III to Emperor Franz Josef (see Habsburgs).  Despite promises to restore the castle when it was sold in 1864, it was only superficially repaired in 1930 and then continued to deteriorate when it was used after WWII by the Soviets as a Tuberculosis sanatorium.  In 1956, it caught fire and burned for 3 weeks.  Despite all the damage, the exterior retains its touch of majesty, and it is easy to envision elegant lords and ladies descending the staircases into  fragrant gardens, accompanied by stately music.  Perhaps if there were more visitors to this hauntingly beautiful site, Lviv would have more money to continue its slow restoration.  It is a structure worth saving.

My tour ended at Zolochiv Castle that had been built in the 1630s  by the father of King Jan Sobieski III.  At first, I thought the site looked more medieval with its well defended steep ramparts and drawbridge, but the palace itself was in a late Holland Renaissance Grand Palace design.  As popular fashion changed, a "Chinese" Palace was added as a gift from King Jan Sobieski III  to his wife, Marysenka, with a lovely stream and gardens.  As with most of these disputed areas, the castle also served as a hospital, barracks, and prison, and a marker reminds one of the slaughter of Ukrainians here at the hand of the Bolsheviks in 1941.  There are also tales of brave men and women in these communities who gave their lives in resistance to Nazi conquest.  At Zolochiv, there was also a stone written in a still un-deciphered language or code to puzzle over.   I was grateful to have taken a day to not only enjoy the beautiful landscape, but to gain greater understanding of its story.


Click below for slideshow:
Polish Castles Near Lviv

Additional Information:
http://www.inlviv.info/services/castles_tour/