The Colossal Walls of Sacsayhuaman, Peru

August 2011

They say that the city of Cusco was designed by the Incas in the shape of the sacred puma or jaguar (see Cusco post on sidebar) with Sacsaywaman as its head, and the jagged, massive stone walls its teeth.  You may again notice the discrepancy in spelling.  It is spelled with both the /h/ and /w/, but is pronounced very much like "saxy woaman," so it has acquired the local nickname of "sexy woman."  While it is fun to joke about going to visit  the "sexy woman," the nickname does not reflect its Inca importance or its bloodied battlefield.

This immense complex (1/3 mile long) was built during the reign of Inca Pachacuttec, at the peak of their empire about 1460 AD.  While it was used as a fortress, it also served political and religious functions.  The complex was built in three terraced levels and was crowned by three towers which were once four stories high.  Many of the stones from the upper walls were later taken by the Spaniards to Cusco to build its cathedral and other buildings.

 The most remarkable thing to see today is the size of the enormous base stones ( some estimated at 125-200 tons) and how they are perfectly fit together without mortar or mud.   It's not as if you could easily re-arrange them if you didn't get it right the first time.  They fit so well together, you can't even slide a piece of paper between some of them.  As with the pyramids of Egypt, we can only wonder at the Inca's accomplishments with their "limited technology."

While one is impressed today just by the stones, chroniclers at the time of the conquest reported that the towers had been covered with sheets of gold and silver as well as beautiful weavings of exotic feathers.  (see Cusco post) The complex seemed magical even to the Spaniards.  Opposite this complex is a lower hill, Suchuna, that was also used in their ceremonies.  There are seats carved into the top of the rock where the Royal Inca and his court would sit to observe the military and religious ceremonies in the field below.

Sacsayhuaman is part of what is called the Sacred Valley and the beginning of the Inca Trail that can lead one up to the distant Machu Picchu.  One hundred years ago, Hiram Bingham, an American explorer (see upcoming Machu Picchu post), searched for the route and place where Manco Inca fled from the Spaniards to set up his new court.

In the process, Bingham not only uncovered Machu Picchu, but later found remarkable ruins of other Inca sites as he followed the overgrown and forgotten Inca Trail (see upcoming post).  Upon seeing Sacsayhuaman, Bingham wrote: "There are few sights in the world more impressive than these Cyclopean walls."

After the Spaniards murdered the Inca ruler, Atahualpa, they allowed his nephew,  Inca Manco, to become their puppet ruler of the Incas in the stronghold of Cusco.  However, as Manco experienced the greed and brutality of the conquistadores, he mobilized a native army for the "great rebellion" and fled into the mountains in 1536.   The Incas quickly reconquered the mighty fortress of Sacsayhuaman, key to the defense of Cusco.

With superior numbers, the Incas retook much of Cusco, but the Spaniards had horses and gunfire.  The rebellion continued for months with atrocities on both sides.  It could have been the end of Spanish rule, but Juan Pissaro (brother to Francisco) risked a calvary attack on Sacsayhuanan.  After a most bloody battle, the  superior weapons, transport, and armor of the Spaniards had won.  Manco and his remaining army fled deeper into the Sacred Valley (next post).

From the height of Sacsayhuaman, one can overlook the city of Cusco (Inca warriors sent flaming arrows into the Spanish town).  As mentioned in the Cusco post,  now the Inti Raymi (Inca festival of the sun) begins  with a procession every June 24 from Cusco to the esplanade facing Sacsayhuaman.

To the east of Sacsayhuaman, is the Inca religious site of Kenko (Qenqo) with two large monoliths  and a series of carved zigzags.  One monolith stands within a semicircular amphitheater and  appears to have been carved in the shape of a monkey before being ruined by the Spaniards.  The larger monolith has a carved passage through it with an altar, probably for the sacrificing of llamas.

Returning to our van,  we passed a boy with his offerings for Pachamama (Mother Earth goddess) as well as a friendly "Inca chief" who plays the flute and makes CDs.  I bought his Relaxation CD.  It provides the background for this and a number of my other posts.  I loved the haunting sounds of the Andean flute which followed us throughout our journey.

Click below for slideshow:
Sacsaywaman

Music:  Tito La Rosa, Llanto del Mundo, Lo Mejor de Tito La Rosa: Meditacion
Additional Information:  http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sacsayhuamán
Insight Guides: Peru
Heaney, Cradle of Gold:  The Story of Hiram Bingham